Hello, folks!

Jeff in TX, here.

As I stated in my introduction and greeting up top, I just landed a 2003 Land Rover Discovery with 135,000 miles on it. I really needed this vehicle as the transmission on my '01 Honda Accord just decided to go out, so, needless to say, the Land Rover came as a blessing for the price that I paid for it. I am happy with my purchase.

However, as one would expect with a 16-year old vehicle, it has a few mechanical hiccups under the hood. Now then, I am not a gearhead per se, but a few things jumped out at me immediately:

(1) The coolant appears to be bubbling all of the time. I believe I can actually hear it bubbling while sitting in the vehicle at idle. Of course, the temperature gauge remains at just a hair below the halfway mark, however, I know what I see, and trust what I hear.

From the research that I have done, thus far, I believe this year of Land Rover Discovery SE is notorious for overheating and/or coming with an insufficient thermostat from the assembly line?

I am thinking of purchasing a 180* thermostat. Is this a good place to start in regard to the coolant issues?

(2) There is a tapping noise that is very audible. The seller told me that it was likely the lifters on the vehicle. I have done a little research of this issue as well, and, again, it appears that this is yet another issue that the Land Rover is notorious for presenting.

Where is the best place to start for rectifying this issue? I do no want the loud tapping to progress to me being stranded on the side of the highway.

(3) Today, my second day of ownership, the ABS indicator, the Traction Control indicator ("TC"), and another indicator (looks like a vehicle going down an incline) all came on the display. I went to the store, came out, and when I started the vehicle, all three of these indicators were displayed - they have yet to leave since.

My guess is that the brakes and/or the ABS just decided to welcome me as the new owner by indicating that servicing is needed. So, where is the best place to start with this issue?

MOST IMPORTANTLY, I need to know where I can take my vehicle here Dallas, TX. We have multiple Land Rover dealerships in the Dallas/Ft. Worth Metro Area, however, something tells me that I may be able to find someone - an actual mechanic(s) - that will actually address the issues - the first time - for the amount of money that I am going to be asked to pay. Again, I am not a gearhead, so I have to take it in to get the three aforementioned issues addressed, however, I insist that the issue be fixed the right way by a trusted source.

OKAY, I will hang up for now. Please excuse the lengthiness of the post, but, the issues are there, and I feel the need to provide the specifics, so I can get the vehicle fixed ASAP.

THANKS, and I will be on standby for you folks' recommendations.

 

1. i would pressure test the coolant system & install a 180 stat
2. oil change with 15-40 shell Rotella and filter
3. those are the three amigos that means you have some type of issue with your ABS.

go to the AP store buy an oil and filter, borrow or rent a pressure tester and have them read an OBDII code that are stored. Atfer that you will have a direct to go. jmho

 

Thank you, Sir. I will go to the NAPA, and buy all of those parts today. I should be able to at least have the oil change and oil filter replaced today. As for the 180-degree thermostat - I will purchase that at NAPA as well, and see about finding someone for installation. I will also inquire with NAPA about the pressure testing.

Thanks, again, for your input, Sir.

 

you want a land rover 180 t stat, you wont get that at napa. rover north or Atlantic british will have it.

 

I have the same year and model and out of all three that you listed have experienced or experiencing the exact same issues.

1) Overheating. Mine I found was leaking coolant from the Throttle body heater cause it is warped. I have a replacement on order.

2) Noise it driving me nuts. I will try what was recommend and change the weight of oil. I have just been using the 10-40.

3) The Three Amigos, mine did that as well after you would drive for about a mile or two it would ding ding ding and bam they would all light up. I removed all the electrical connections on the modulator and cleaned them. Still happened so I just let it be and drove it that way. After about two months it went away. I did find on the forum to Google A B fix 3 amigos but I have not done that yet.

Good luck with yours my list is about 10 items long of issues that I having but I love my Rover..

 

Well, I went to the parts store, and purchased 3 gallons of 15w-40 Rotella T5 Synthetic Oil along with a K&N Oil Filter. I also purchased a NAPA Gold Air Filter. I plan on changing the oil tonight; I just need to go to Home Depot to get some 2x4 in order to elevate the front end a little more to get as much of the old oil out of the vehicle as possible.

This is what I purchased, Sir:

 

Thanks, so much for your input. I need people like yourself to chime in, and assist me with my situation. I'm new...very new, and I want to consider the advice, experience, and information of those who have already been down the path that I am traversing - that is, if they are willing. Again, I thank you.

I will look into what you suggested in regard to the "three amigos" however, first, I am just dying to rectify the overheating - I can hear the coolant bubbling form inside the vehicle. The tapping noise would be nice to eliminate as well - I have the 15w-40 Rotella. We will see what it does.

 

I have a 2003 that I bought before the summer and it was also making that tapping noise. Do you want to know what it is? Most likely one of the cylinder sleeves moving up and down. If you hooked up an aftermarket temperature sensor, you will probably find that your truck is running at 215-220 degrees. If you get the operating temp down to 200 degrees, the cylinder sleeve will stop moving if you are lucky. If temps are still getting well above 200 after the 180 version is installed, then check the fan clutch, radiator and pressure cap. If the hoses are original, replace ALL of them. The upper and lower are "assemblies" with plastic which is brittle by now and will crack or break at your soonest inconvenience. Don't forget to replace the 2 plastic coolant lines as well; same issue. Get one of those $100 OBD code readers that will erase codes and show your real-time data like temps, O2 sensor function, engine load, MIL status and especially ABS, as you are current situation calls for. Just buy one now. You will need it all day, every day with this 2003. When you get the ABS codes, report back for suggestions on the fix, or just search threads, it won't be hard to find. If it's not the brakes, hub or wheel speed sensor then it will be shuttle valve modulator or one of the re-wire fixes for said modulator. After the cooling system and ABS you then need to pull the front drive-shaft and rebuild it with greasable U-joints or replace it entirely with a new one from Lucky8.com for $200. Check the rear shaft also. If the polyurethane doughnut connecting it to the differential is hard and stress-cracked then buy a new one and another U-joint from Lucky8 for $25 apiece and rebuild that one too. Don't drag your feet on any of this as the results can be catastrophic, minus the rear drive-prop. Although the front one will catch your transmission and bust a hole in it of it does let go and you will have to replace the tranny entirely; catastrophic. That slipped sleeve and engine coolant at 220 will blow your head-gasket out or lead to a cracked block, needing an engine replacement; catastrophic. Good luck to you and get to work.

I have used North Dallas Imports on Forest Lane. They have 2 Master LR techs that aren't afraid of anything and they will come pick your vehicle up but I don't use them unless I absolutely have to. I hate the thought of my baby being molested by some know-it-all. Those people are pretty douchey but they can get you out of a jam for sure.

 

Thanks, so much for such an in-depth response, man - I was thinking that it would likely be weeks before anyone responded with a clue as to what "Dallas" is or where a Rover mechanic may be located in the area. Thanks, again for the reference to NDI - it appears that their reviews are stellar, especially, in regard to their Rover mechanic. I will likely hire them to replace the driveshafts, as I am not a gearhead.

As for the thermostat, I cannot wait to get it installed - it is on the way from the East Coast. I really hope that it does the trick! I will get the code reader ASAP as well.

I was really stoked about getting to change my oil tonight in the garage, when lo and behold, I read that one must install a new drain plug and drain plug washer upon each oil change???

Way to ruin my evening! anyway, I will have to order that as well, or perhaps see if I can purchase one from the dealership tomorrow, because I really want to get that oil changed ASAP!

Thanks, again for your kindness in responding and helping me along, Chubbs.

 

Welcome to the Forum.
The bubbling that you're hearing inside the truck. Does it happen at startup? Could it be said to be a waterfall type sound behind the dash? If so, then you have air in your heater core. Once you replace the thermostat, bleed the system thoroughly and the noise will go away.
You're going to want to get that cooling system pressure tested asap. In fact the three most critical things for you to do are 1) check the cooling system 2) buy an obd2 reader that allows you to monitor the coolant temperature in real time and 3) ensure that the front driveshaft has been replaced with one tabs can be serviced.

All these things I've already been mentioned by folks that have replied but I can't over emphasize how important it is to ensure that the truck isn't running hot.