Well, I'm new here and a realitively new LR owner. My wife bought my 1998 Discovery when I was in Iraq so I would have something to drive when I got back.

I sold my Explorer that had 250,000 on it right before I left.
Anyway, I have a problem with a leak. I drew an arrow to the part where the leak is except it's the one on the back of the motor. The front doesn't leak, but they seem to be the same part. Is this a big deal or can I do it myself? Is is a gasket or soemthing more serious. There's is only one bolt holding the bracket, but I don't know what's beyond that. Anyone know this part and/or how easy it is to fix. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I have tools; I just don't want to get in too deep and have to have it towed in to be completed.

 

What you are pointing at is the valley pan seal. You will have to remove the intake to get to it. Check your valve cover gaskets before tearing into it. Also make sure it isn't coming from your head gaskets.

For good parts, go to www.roverparts.com. Good site with good deals...

 

If you decide to do the valley pan gasket, then order your self a set of 8mm Magnacor plug wires so you can install them at the same time. They will make a huge difference in the way the engine will run.
Also, since you just bought the truck, here is a list for your home work/service.

This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service the way I do it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W gear oil
2 Qts of Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt if not yet replaced
2 Bottles of SeaFoam


60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Flush the coolant system
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.

Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Mike

 

I can actually see the oil coming out around the bolt in the back. No way to do it without removing the intake?

Disco Mike... thanks for the really long list.

 

May be a long list but you have just purchased a new vehicle and it is better to get it all current then to hope it won't fail.
Good luck

 

The more I look at your picture and how you describe the location, I am thinking it's not a valley pan. I would like ta better picture and description. How about power scrubbing the engine off so you/we can get a better look at it. Make sure not to get your ECU wet or the truck won' start again.

 

The bolt that the arrow is pointing to is where the oil is coming from. It's not the front one though it's the same bolt but in the back. I can actually see the oil coming from around the bolt so I know where the leak is. If I see the leak what else could it be?

 

I'm going to tackle this myself. I guess I'll have to see what parts I need once I'm into it. If anyone has any tips please send them on.

 

valley pan gasket.... that bolt, front or back holds down the valley pan the covers your lifter/pushrod access...

Have you tried gently tightening it?

 

Okay, I got adventurous and replaced the valley pan gasket and the 2 gaskets on the front and back as well as the valve cover gaskets since I was in there.
This the culprit. The back one was where the leak was.

I knocked off my spark plug wires and I think I have a few out of order now.
The wires are connected at the back of the motor in a straight line and not like a distributor cap. The bracket holds the whatevers and the wires are all in a row.

How are these supposed to be attached to the spark plugs? Simply from this diagram connect the letters and numbers.
abcdefgh <---This is the "distributor" type thing at the back of the motor
7 8
5 6
3 4
1 2 <--- These are the cylinders

I just found this

The bracket at the back has numbers 2 3 4 7 8 5 6 1 stamped on it. Are those the corresponding numbers to the cylinders?

I got it!!! Runs smooth now.