I was told that I could use a Ford Fusion alternator as a replacement
Hi all,
I got a 2013 Range Rover Evoque Plus (VIN: SALVP1BG8DH729560) with a failing alternator. The seller who is familiar with all things Land Rover mentioned a trick where I can get a Ford Fusion alternator that is an exact replacement of the original and will work just as well. The primary motivator for getting a Ford type is because it's significantly cheaper.
I tried to do some research but am not getting anywhere close. The OE alternator model is: LR067840. It appears to be 180A. The closest equivalent I can find from Ford is G2GZ10346H which is 175A. I don't know if they're direct fit or not though.
Does anyone have any knowledge in this? If this ends up being futile, then can I trust a rebuilt unit from NAPA or Autozone (Duralast Gold)?
Thanks!
I got a 2013 Range Rover Evoque Plus (VIN: SALVP1BG8DH729560) with a failing alternator. The seller who is familiar with all things Land Rover mentioned a trick where I can get a Ford Fusion alternator that is an exact replacement of the original and will work just as well. The primary motivator for getting a Ford type is because it's significantly cheaper.
I tried to do some research but am not getting anywhere close. The OE alternator model is: LR067840. It appears to be 180A. The closest equivalent I can find from Ford is G2GZ10346H which is 175A. I don't know if they're direct fit or not though.
Does anyone have any knowledge in this? If this ends up being futile, then can I trust a rebuilt unit from NAPA or Autozone (Duralast Gold)?
Thanks!
I just replaced the alternator on my 2013 LR2 with 82,000 miles. I used a new Bosch alternator AL0894N, $510. ! (RockAuto) was the best price I could find. It is also available as a remanufactured unit for about $350. Plus a $75 refundable core charge. It is difficult installation requiring the vehicle on a lift as you need access from above and below. The drive belt requires removing the tensioner. The power steering pump has to moved out of the way and the intake manifold needed to be removed as well as various connectors, intake pipes and emissions hoses. I did not need to remove the thermostat or open the cooling system as I was able to wiggle the old unit out and the new one slipped back in. It is a 4 hour job for an experienced mechanic and requires various specialty tools. The regulator was problem on my old alternator as it was inaccurately fluctuating the system voltage and causing a dashboard charging system default message. I wouldn’t try the Ford alternator as it is not the same voltage and may not be designed for the same regulator specifications. I wouldn’t want to have to remove and replace it if it doesn’t work correctly, plus the cost of getting the correct unit. I also replaced the drive belt. The old alternator’s gold wound wiring was coated with carbon buildup. Spend the extra $ and get the correct Bosch unit so you are not paying double labor costs later on.
Last edited by Car-guy28; Oct 28, 2020 at 07:35 AM.
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