ignition switch???
#1
ignition switch???
Alright here goes, 96 Disco w/174,000+ . Sometimes when I turn the ignition key a puff of smoke lightly rises out of the steering column near the ignition switch. This has only happened about 3 times since I became the new owner (6months). Then a few days ago when I turned the key to start, nothing happened, all accessories come on but it would not crank. Left it alone for 20 min and it started right up.
My guess is there is a short in the switch. My question is how difficult and costly is it to replace an ignition switch in one of these bad girls?
Thanks,
Geoff
My guess is there is a short in the switch. My question is how difficult and costly is it to replace an ignition switch in one of these bad girls?
Thanks,
Geoff
#3
i have also seen where the ground from the chasis to the starter bolt is left off and either the ebrake or shifter cable provides a ground for the starting circuit which can cause smoking from the center console or igntion switch while cranking--i'd check your grounds and then try electrical portion of the igntion switch
#4
It seems this only does this when its HOT. It was 96 degrees today and it did it again. Reminds me of an old Chevy truck I had that had a 350 c.i. motor with headers. Chevy starter solenoids are on the starter so when you put headers on the starter and solenoid are very close and get very hot. Older Chevy 350's were known for this problem. Could I be experiencing the same type of issue with my Disco?
#5
Same Problem
It seems this only does this when its HOT. It was 96 degrees today and it did it again. Reminds me of an old Chevy truck I had that had a 350 c.i. motor with headers. Chevy starter solenoids are on the starter so when you put headers on the starter and solenoid are very close and get very hot. Older Chevy 350's were known for this problem. Could I be experiencing the same type of issue with my Disco?
#6
Rebelman, I did not get a chance to look at it today. Yesterday while I was waiting for the "cool down" I took the top cover off the steering column just to take a look. There appears to be two switches on top of the key mechanism. Neither of them were hot to the touch or appeared to be "burnt". I'll dig into it in the next few days and post anything I find. Good luck to you too and thanks for the graphite tip, I'm going to use that.
Geoff
Geoff
#7
thanks
Rebelman, I did not get a chance to look at it today. Yesterday while I was waiting for the "cool down" I took the top cover off the steering column just to take a look. There appears to be two switches on top of the key mechanism. Neither of them were hot to the touch or appeared to be "burnt". I'll dig into it in the next few days and post anything I find. Good luck to you too and thanks for the graphite tip, I'm going to use that.
Geoff
Geoff
For some reason I did not get an email notice of your reply. I will check back every day. I have not had time yet to check into this further. I will take mine apart this weekend I hope and see if there is some kind of switch to replace. Looks like we could find some kind of electrical expert out there to help us. I guess trial and error is the only LR way. I was told by the locksmith that I could crank the vehicle by using a screwdriver at the terminals of this particular switch. I don't know. Just let me know if you find out anything. Thanks again. If we do not have to buy a new lock and switch combination that would be a lot cheaper for sure.
I went to my user cp and updated to get notification of any responses to this thread. I forget and keep looking under the Discovery heading of the forums. Thanks again.
Last edited by rebelman; 06-15-2010 at 08:19 AM. Reason: update
#8
Checking in.
http://www.roverparts.com/Nxt/search...ch&btn-submit=
Seems you would be able to see if something is getting that hot? Above url is for AB page where the electrical part of the switch is shown. However, I think DAP may have it cheaper. If this seems to be the problem I guess it would be better to go new rather than used on this part. Hope to check it out further this weekend. Will check back later.
Seems you would be able to see if something is getting that hot? Above url is for AB page where the electrical part of the switch is shown. However, I think DAP may have it cheaper. If this seems to be the problem I guess it would be better to go new rather than used on this part. Hope to check it out further this weekend. Will check back later.
#9
I just got off the phone with Roverguy and he thinks it is the starter. I went through the process of taking it off last summer and it checked out ok but Roverguy said it still may be the solenoid switch getting hot and then the starter will not crank. I was thinking that but when the starter passed the test at the local parts store I was told no problem existed with the starter. Now that you tell me you cannot find anything wrong at the switch or signs of burning etc I am puzzled. You did say smoke was comng from the switch area? Guess I have to decide what to replace now.
#10
Hey rebelman,
I saw the ignition switch on AB as well. I really want to isolate the issue before I start throwing parts at it and hope it fixes it. I put some graphite in the keyhole, I figured it can't hurt, but I haven't driven it enough to really test it out. Daytime temp here was around 97 so it was definitely hot enough if heat is part of the problem. Another thing showed up while driving at highway speed. Without moving my foot from the gas pedal the engine seems to "slow down" momentarily like when you take your foot off the pedal then suddenly return to sounding and running normally. Who knows what this could be. I'm going to stop by Autozone tomorrow and have them scan the computer and see what comes up.
As far as the ignition switch, I saw the electrical part of the switch on the column with 4 wires coming out of it. I'm going to test the voltage across all 4 and in all 3 position of the key just to see if there is anything inconsistent. I have a gut feeling it is the problem but I want to be sure. I am also thinking about eliminating that and using a push button start. It probably would be pretty easy but I have to wait and see.
I'll post results of the scan at Autozone.
Geoff
I saw the ignition switch on AB as well. I really want to isolate the issue before I start throwing parts at it and hope it fixes it. I put some graphite in the keyhole, I figured it can't hurt, but I haven't driven it enough to really test it out. Daytime temp here was around 97 so it was definitely hot enough if heat is part of the problem. Another thing showed up while driving at highway speed. Without moving my foot from the gas pedal the engine seems to "slow down" momentarily like when you take your foot off the pedal then suddenly return to sounding and running normally. Who knows what this could be. I'm going to stop by Autozone tomorrow and have them scan the computer and see what comes up.
As far as the ignition switch, I saw the electrical part of the switch on the column with 4 wires coming out of it. I'm going to test the voltage across all 4 and in all 3 position of the key just to see if there is anything inconsistent. I have a gut feeling it is the problem but I want to be sure. I am also thinking about eliminating that and using a push button start. It probably would be pretty easy but I have to wait and see.
I'll post results of the scan at Autozone.
Geoff