Hello fellow Landers, question has anyone had a
problem with their knock sensor on their Disco 2?
Like ​​​​loss of power, slow acceleration, even poorer
fueleconomy. Had swapped one out on bank 1 and that didn't fix the problem, and after 2 years driving the vehicle, today I went in and removed the old wiring and spliced in new wiring and wow that made a hell of a difference. My acceleration was on point but I'm not sure how I'm doing with fuel economy. I do know I was burning rich, so I guess I'll drive it around and look at the tail pipe after it's been cleaned. Well I figured I share this information if anyone is having the same issue.

Sidenote: the connector has two wires sticking out but then it fuses into one wire. I'm not sure if that applies to everyone else but the job itself wasn't to bad just putting the belt back on was a bit of a challenge for me since I left the fan on.
also I'm sorry I don't have pictures for you gents, I forgot to take them and I have a crappy camera on my phone.

 

This is probably a stupid question but, where is the knock sensor at on the front? I'm a newer Disco2 owner, and it needs some TLC and honestly that may be one of the issues it has.

 

No such thing as a stupid question, so you actually have two of them. They are located on the sides of the motor on the bottom. So if you lay down or put your Disco on a lift you will see a sensor with a heat shield around it right next to the oil sump.

 

Honestly I have yet to hear someone's knock sensors go bad. Wiring go bad... Yes. Knock sensor go bad... No.
I've bought a pair of Bosch #W0133-2040009 knock sensors 2 years ago. No need to install them... yet.

From the RAVE...
Function
The ECM knock control uses two sensors located one between the centre two cylinders of each bank. The knock
sensors consist of piezo ceramic crystals that oscillate to create a voltage signal. During pre-ignition, the frequency
of crystal oscillation increases which alters the signal output to the ECM.

If the knock sensors detect pre-ignition in any of the cylinders, the ECM retards the ignition timing by 3° for that
particular cylinder. If this action stops the engine knock, the ignition timing is restored to its previous figure in
increments of 0.75°. If this action does not stop engine knock then the ECM retards the ignition timing a further 3° up
to a maximum of -15° and then restores it by 0.75° and so on until the engine knock is eliminated.

The ECM also counteracts engine knock at high intake air temperatures by retarding the ignition as above. The ECM
uses the IAT signal to determine air temperature.

 

Thank you, I appreciate that. I honestly don't know if the knock sensor(s) is an issue. But I didn't even think of it till I saw this post. Does anyone know if the knock sensor has a specific code that it will throw?

 

It wasn't my knock sensor it was the wire that was shorting out. There was bare wire touching a metal surface, so sometimes when I turn on my vehicle and accelerate it would be sluggish and loss of power, and on some days it would seem like there wasn't anything wrong with it. The person before me did a horrible job at fixing the short.