Locked out of my D2 TD5
#1
08-22-2013, 08:17 PM
Locked out of my D2 TD5
Firstly, I am new to the forum and would like to say hello to the Landrover enthusiasts.
It may be of help to others as I have been working on various problems with the D2 over the past year.
Starting with the dreaded fuel pipe leak behind the tank. For the third time I developed this leak in the plastic fuel line and on the previous occasions it was fixed in the garage. The first time was under warranty as a recall 9 years ago, the second in 2009 I had to pay a fortune to the main dealer to fix the line and the final time I decided to fit new fuel lines myself. The fuel pipes aren't cheap but I replaced all 4? as I wasn't sure which one was leaking. I pumped out the diesel tank and removed it and than fitted the new lines with the modification that I added some 8mm ID reinforced neoprene pipe where the lines abrade behind the tank and held into position with tie wraps. All seems OK so far.
The next problem was the '3 Amigo' dash lights, these were illuminating and causing the D2 to shut down into 'get you home' mode. Having read extensively about the various causes I eliminated the problems to the autobox selector switch on the side of the gearbox. I removed the switch (it is easier to remove with the centre exhaust removed first) and drilled out the rivets holding the switch together and carefully dismantled the switch. There wasn't any water leakage into the switch but what was happening was the plastic casting sprue was interfering with the tiny brushes when selecting gears. I carefully picked off the excess plastic sprue and cleaned out the whole switch with electrical contact cleaner and smeared petroleum jelly onto the contact tracks and brushes. I also extended the brushes by carefully pulling them to elongate them. I then reassembled the switch and replaced the rivets with M5x12mm set screws and nylock nuts. I then refitted the switch to the gearbox ensuring all parts were cleaned and lubricated with spray grease. (one might say why didn't I buy a new switch - well the one fitted was the latest type fitted to the ZF gearbox and the replacement price was £455+VAT from Landrover and then there is no guarantee it will be any better. So far the problems seem resolved and no Amigo dash lights have come on in the last 500 miles.
The most recent problem was I was locked out of the D2 due to the superlock system and the battery going flat. Unbeknown to me when summoned for dinner a few nights ago whilst trying to sort out a satnav problem I got out of the D2 leaving the interior light on and the radio on although at nil volume. Three days later we went to use the D2 and it wouldn't respond to the remote key fob so I tried the key in the only door lock. The key turned 90 degrees in both directions but wouldn't latch or release the door lock. It was then I noticed the security light on the dash wasn't flashing and the security light on the satnav wasn't either. So this morning I called the main agents for help - that was a wasted phone call as they offered no help and said break the side window to get into the D2 as that is what they do (after all they aren't paying the bills). So I considered what might be wrong and decided it was due to being locked and then the battery had probably discharged for some reason. I considered cutting the front grille and drilling out the rivets to release the bonnet catch - but that only gets me into the engine compartment and if my theory is wrong it wouldn't help. So I enquired as to the comparable prices of the side window glasses. The rear door glass is considerably cheaper new and more readily available secondhand. So I decided to break the rear door window on the nearside. Having read about this manoeuvre I taped the whole glass exterior with tank tape to minimise the amount of glass entering the D2 and going in every direction. I then put some bubble wrap taped to the rear door paintwork and directed this into a 1 cubic metre polypropylene sack on the ground underneath the rear door. I read somewhere many years ago how car thiefs break into cars by breaking a window and they nearly always use a centre punch as it breaks the glass first hit. So I put a centre punch held with mole grips and hit it with a 3lb club hammer in the bottom right hand corner of the window, in fact I hit it far too hard and it only actually needs a light hammer and a sharp tap. The window shattered and most of the glass was retained on the tank tape. I vacuumed the excess glass up and climbed through the window - no mean feat when you're approaching 70 years. I scrambled into the driver seat and opened the bonnet (hood) and tested the battery with an Avometer. The battery was dead. I then held down the under bonnet alarm switch with the club hammer taped onto it and connected a large 80 amp slave battery. The alarm immediately sounded so I pressed the key fob and it silenced and the door actuators all operated by first press the drivers door and second press the rest of the doors. I then started the D2 which started and ran immediately so I wedged the throttle at 2000 rpm to charge the battery for half an hour. All that remains now is to buy a replacement rear window glass and fit it. I recently bought an Autel Diagnostic tool so I will check and clear any faults that may have registered. Unfortunately when locked out with the superlock on an LR the only option is to break the window unless you can get the EKA code and you need to visit the main dealer in person with the registration documents and personal identification before they will give you the code.
PS afterthought - yes, like a dummy I had left the interior light on and the radio which had caused the flat battery over 3 days.
I hope some of the above is useful to them in solving their problems.
Best
It may be of help to others as I have been working on various problems with the D2 over the past year.
Starting with the dreaded fuel pipe leak behind the tank. For the third time I developed this leak in the plastic fuel line and on the previous occasions it was fixed in the garage. The first time was under warranty as a recall 9 years ago, the second in 2009 I had to pay a fortune to the main dealer to fix the line and the final time I decided to fit new fuel lines myself. The fuel pipes aren't cheap but I replaced all 4? as I wasn't sure which one was leaking. I pumped out the diesel tank and removed it and than fitted the new lines with the modification that I added some 8mm ID reinforced neoprene pipe where the lines abrade behind the tank and held into position with tie wraps. All seems OK so far.
The next problem was the '3 Amigo' dash lights, these were illuminating and causing the D2 to shut down into 'get you home' mode. Having read extensively about the various causes I eliminated the problems to the autobox selector switch on the side of the gearbox. I removed the switch (it is easier to remove with the centre exhaust removed first) and drilled out the rivets holding the switch together and carefully dismantled the switch. There wasn't any water leakage into the switch but what was happening was the plastic casting sprue was interfering with the tiny brushes when selecting gears. I carefully picked off the excess plastic sprue and cleaned out the whole switch with electrical contact cleaner and smeared petroleum jelly onto the contact tracks and brushes. I also extended the brushes by carefully pulling them to elongate them. I then reassembled the switch and replaced the rivets with M5x12mm set screws and nylock nuts. I then refitted the switch to the gearbox ensuring all parts were cleaned and lubricated with spray grease. (one might say why didn't I buy a new switch - well the one fitted was the latest type fitted to the ZF gearbox and the replacement price was £455+VAT from Landrover and then there is no guarantee it will be any better. So far the problems seem resolved and no Amigo dash lights have come on in the last 500 miles.
The most recent problem was I was locked out of the D2 due to the superlock system and the battery going flat. Unbeknown to me when summoned for dinner a few nights ago whilst trying to sort out a satnav problem I got out of the D2 leaving the interior light on and the radio on although at nil volume. Three days later we went to use the D2 and it wouldn't respond to the remote key fob so I tried the key in the only door lock. The key turned 90 degrees in both directions but wouldn't latch or release the door lock. It was then I noticed the security light on the dash wasn't flashing and the security light on the satnav wasn't either. So this morning I called the main agents for help - that was a wasted phone call as they offered no help and said break the side window to get into the D2 as that is what they do (after all they aren't paying the bills). So I considered what might be wrong and decided it was due to being locked and then the battery had probably discharged for some reason. I considered cutting the front grille and drilling out the rivets to release the bonnet catch - but that only gets me into the engine compartment and if my theory is wrong it wouldn't help. So I enquired as to the comparable prices of the side window glasses. The rear door glass is considerably cheaper new and more readily available secondhand. So I decided to break the rear door window on the nearside. Having read about this manoeuvre I taped the whole glass exterior with tank tape to minimise the amount of glass entering the D2 and going in every direction. I then put some bubble wrap taped to the rear door paintwork and directed this into a 1 cubic metre polypropylene sack on the ground underneath the rear door. I read somewhere many years ago how car thiefs break into cars by breaking a window and they nearly always use a centre punch as it breaks the glass first hit. So I put a centre punch held with mole grips and hit it with a 3lb club hammer in the bottom right hand corner of the window, in fact I hit it far too hard and it only actually needs a light hammer and a sharp tap. The window shattered and most of the glass was retained on the tank tape. I vacuumed the excess glass up and climbed through the window - no mean feat when you're approaching 70 years. I scrambled into the driver seat and opened the bonnet (hood) and tested the battery with an Avometer. The battery was dead. I then held down the under bonnet alarm switch with the club hammer taped onto it and connected a large 80 amp slave battery. The alarm immediately sounded so I pressed the key fob and it silenced and the door actuators all operated by first press the drivers door and second press the rest of the doors. I then started the D2 which started and ran immediately so I wedged the throttle at 2000 rpm to charge the battery for half an hour. All that remains now is to buy a replacement rear window glass and fit it. I recently bought an Autel Diagnostic tool so I will check and clear any faults that may have registered. Unfortunately when locked out with the superlock on an LR the only option is to break the window unless you can get the EKA code and you need to visit the main dealer in person with the registration documents and personal identification before they will give you the code.
PS afterthought - yes, like a dummy I had left the interior light on and the radio which had caused the flat battery over 3 days.
I hope some of the above is useful to them in solving their problems.
Best
#2
08-22-2013, 08:22 PM
Super Moderator
#3
08-23-2013, 05:50 AM
Hi Savannah Buzz,
Thanks for your reply. I shall remember the connection idea via the starter motor in future as I could have probably charged the battery via this connection (I checked the circuit diagram on the RAVE manual and of course you were correct) and a lot easier than breaking the window glass. Thanks for the EKA generic code as it might come in useful sometime - one never knows when.
Best Or
Thanks for your reply. I shall remember the connection idea via the starter motor in future as I could have probably charged the battery via this connection (I checked the circuit diagram on the RAVE manual and of course you were correct) and a lot easier than breaking the window glass. Thanks for the EKA generic code as it might come in useful sometime - one never knows when.
Best Or
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