Ok. So as you all can tell I'm not mechanically inclined when it comes to automobiles. So, yes, I'm sure that he is quoting a dealer part. I take it from looking through some threads and the responses to this thread that that probably is not necessary. Do you not want to go with LR parts on something like this? I've seen where not going with dealer authorized or dealer parts on some repairs has caused issues with warning codes and performance issues. Not so with a fuel pump? And what kind of labor time are we looking at with a fuel pump change? I've tried to research so as not to have to come and ask questions that have been answered 100 times before, but my problem with that is that I'll find the question I want answered, but the replies sound like mechanics talking to mechanics...over my head. From what I've seen, simply changing the fuel pump itself is probably not the best option, as seals, hoses, screws and other hardware may be corroded or damaged before or during the change. I'm also assuming that since this is being done by a mechanic at a shop and not by an independent mechanic, they are probably looking at doing the max as far as what needs to or will be changed out in order to be able to guarantee the work...ie, they will be changing hoses/seals etc. to ensure that I don't get 100 miles down the road and have a related part fail on me. I'm ok with all of that, but I do not want to be getting charged a set labor fee on something with pump being charged at x units, hoses being charged at x units, clamps and seals being charged at x units...all individually rounded up to the next time unit when the job should only take 1/2 that time in actuality. I really wish I had my garage set up for and all the info and tools that I planned on getting so I could work on all of this myself, but all this **** has hit the proverbial wind machine before I had the time to get myself and my space set up to do so. Anyway, I appreciate y'alls' responses and would like to know what you think total labor time should be assuming that they are going to change out everything related to the fuel pump like would happen at a dealership if I took it there. Thanks again for the replies.

 

Ok. You're right about the scope of the responses on those threads. I get why it might be confusing to someone not mechanically inclined. So I'll give you a easy answer to your fuel pump question.

There are two different ways to do a fuel pump. 1. The entire unit. Meaning the sending unit (part that gives the fuel gauge it's information), the actual fuel pump, and the housing (basically the skeleton of the fuel pump/sending unit assembly). 2. The pump itself.

If I remember correctly the D2 (Discovery Series 2 which your truck is) has an access port built into the rear floor to access the fuel pump. I know my 2 D1 trucks had them. What that means is the fuel tank does not have to be dropped to pull the pump. That's saves alot of time for the mechanic. That should also mean that the labor on the bill should be substantially less than other vehicles that don't have that access panel. Those vehicles would require dropping the fuel tank.

Unless there is an evident problem with the fuel pump assembly there is no reason to replace the entire unit. Only the actual pump. Now my experience with D2's are somewhat limited since I only had one for a short while. On the Discoveries I've worked on extensively, the fuel pump can be had for 20-30 bucks. This has been the case for me on other non LR vehicles I've owned too. In fact I can remember maybe one or two I had to replace the entire assembly.

The pump replacement does also require the replacement of the rubber hoses it's attached to. Which is no big deal. Easily done. Other than ensuring a good seal for the housing (it lives inside the gas tank. You don't want it to leak.) , and ensuring all electrical connections are clean and secure, there is no giant labor intensive process that would require 1100 dollars worth of work.

Your truck doesn't care if there is a Land Rover stamp on the pump or not. All it cares about is if it's getting fuel. If you have a decent quality pump installed this shouldn't be a problem.

 

A kind member has a LR pump for me for $75.00, and I am going to tell the mechanic I've been working with about the replies ice had on here. Maybe he's thinking he has to drop the tank, or maybe it's because he's having to charge what the company he works for spits out of their computer for whatever job they enter into it. Regardless, I let him know today what price I found a LR pump for and that I understand that saving a few bucks might not be wise in all situations for a used vs new part, but paying 75 vs 1100 for a part is not merely saving s few bucks. The labor on top of this is going to run in the 5-600 range, so I want some clarification on this. I payed 1100 to to have new head gaskets installed and I'm failing to see where this repair is nearly as big a deal as that. I've already let them change my universal joints for approx. 270.00, and I'm going to buy tires from them, so I have no problem walking away from this situation if I'm about to get the screw job that it feels like in about to get. Thanks for the replays. Now, can anyone point me to a step by step tutorial on how to change this pump out? Video would be awesome...going to go to you tube now and search for one. Anywhere I can get a diagram of what I'll be looking at and doing. Thanks.

 

Wow. Ok, YouTube is my friend. Going to have a discussion with mechanic tomorrow about what changing it involves and why the high labor cost. Going to do this one myself. Good grief!

 

You can make most of your repairs by searching threads on this site, checking the "tech" page on discoweb.org (I think a fuel pump fix may be the only repair for which there is no tutorial) and then YouTube, like you said. You can find parts both OEM Genuine and aftermarket for a good price as the automotive shop is going to at least double the cost on parts. Shop online, import salvage yards and here on the boards. You can find links for LR parts sales everywhere. Then compare that to your shop quotes or LR Dealer Parts & Service: it's ridiculous. If you can't find what you are looking for then ask questions here. You already found out how bad you are getting screwed by letting someone else (business) work on your vehicle plus half the time they half-*** the job or screw up something else. At least when you are working on the truck you know exactly what is coming off and what is going back on it. I'm still pissed off about the last time I had an auto repair business work on my truck as I later found I had been scammed with short-cuts and Lied-to about make and quality of the parts replaced. Reach out to people here online as I have found they are happy to help with tips and advice, will even meet with you in-person to check out your situation. my bet is that your disco is going to need 1 repair after another at this age and mileage so either sell it or prepare to be extremely intimate with her in the future! I try to look at it as a healthy hobby that gives me something to do all of the time, keeps me out of trouble, exercises the brain and introduces you to new people. From the way you started the thread, giving it back to your father or selling it would eliminate all of your unforeseen aggravation LOL

 

Is that $75 pump 2nd hand ? if it is i would expect to be replacing it again at some point, if the D2 pump is similar to a D1 then there is a bosch unit that can be used with a little tweaking.

 

you may a new mechanic, unless you think he may have "accidentally" over quoted you $1200 or so dollars.

Advanced sells a complete Boshe fuel pump and sending unit for $380 and an hour to put it in.
I know Arban said his wife can do them in 10-minute, but i assume that's after the carpet is removed.

 

Its like I told the mechanic yesterday when he said that using a second had fuel pump would put me back in this same situation down the road, as dust will get inside the pump and eventually cause it to fail...if it gets me three months, it's worth the cost savings between 1,100 and 75.00. Now that I've seen how easy it is to change one of these, that is even more true. I would like to avoid having to do this again soon and avoid getting stranded, so if I can put in a new unit that costs 200.00-300.00, then I'd rather go that route. Again, I'm new to anything auto mechanical, so when you say "a little tweaking," that worries me some. The youtube vid I watched, the guy was putting in a bosch unit, and it seemed plug and play to me. When I say that I'm new to auto mechanical, understand that I'm not incapable of learning all of this by any means; Six years ago I knew nothing about anesthesia, but today I can put the sickest of the sick to sleep with a smile on their face, get them safely through the most harrowing of surgeries, then wake them up pain free and smiling...all I need is the education and experience. Of course, I'm not signed up for 3 years of full time land rover mechanic classes, so figuring this out online as I go is going to be more difficult and question laden than becoming and anesthetist...

I see fuel pump assembly that Rover's North is selling for the D2 is a bosch unit. What tweaks am I looking at having to make...in layman's terms. I figure I should probably replace the rubber seal, but what else should I replace? The hoses? If I need to replace the gas line hose, how do I get to that without dropping the tank, as it looks like the only thing you can access to change from the drop down port under the carpet is the pump assembly itself?

 

I havent seen a D2 pump but for the D1 we use an easily sourced local GM/Bosch pump in place of the OEM LR pump, it requires some wiring mods and to the mounting hardware.
Its not dust that will kill the pump but lack of lubrication and bad fuel is more likely, sure go with the cheap pump but start looking for a cheaper new replacement for when it dies.

 

Ok. So an new OEM pump is going to run me 349.00, and I'm OK with paying that for a new OEM pump knowing that it will result in less chance that this problem will leave me stranded in BFE and no cell service in -20 weather whilst wet from duck hunting etc. So, after I determine whether or not my engine requires SAI pump or not, I am going to order the part and make this repair myself. Please help, in layman's terms as best as possible, with the following questions/concerns.

1. What else should I replace to maximize the success of fixing this problem without having secondary problems related to this repair jump up and bite me in the ****? I'm thinking new pump-seat seal for sure. What else? Fuel filter/hoses/etc.

2. If there are other items that do need replacing or you might suggest replacing since I'm in there anyway, please tell me the part name, how to go about changing the part, and what tools I will need to do the repair.

I apologize for asking so many redundant questions about this, but I want to get this right...so I can get my truck back in action, but also to gain a little confidence (both for me and my wife who is quite skeptical at this point) since I'm obviously going to be working on this thing quite a bit from here forward.

More info that may alter what y'all think or would recommend me doing about this...

When I gave this truck to dad in Sep '12, he drove it as a backup vehicle occasionally. Once he had the suspension changed to coils, they obviously did not reset the computer to recognize this change, and the SLS caused a slow battery drain that left him confused as to what was going on. He changed batteries, but since he did not drive the vehicle often, it would kill the new battery. Being a back-up and not understanding what was happening, he let the car sit for the majority of the 2.5+ years he had it. I'm sure the wonderful ethanol gas that we have to subsidize corroded everything that it possibly corrode.

Thanks for all of your input and help.