Hello All:

Hope you can help.

My 99 Disco I has 101K, owned for 7 months, & battery/alternator are only a few months old.

Over the last few days it has taken a bit longer to turn over. It's cranking but engine won't start for a few seconds. So far it's started every time BUT a problem obviously exists. Not sure of the age of the plugs/wires/fuel filter.

Any ideas on where to start to diagnose?

Thanks!

JKK (TX)

 

It's the starter. It will do this for a little while longer, then just click when you try and start it. Mine failed this way a little while back. I have a 95 model and you pretty much have to take the passenger exhaust manifold off to remove the starter. I started working on it and saw it was not going to be fun. The dealer broke a bolt when trying to get the starter off. It was a real pain in the butt and took them a while to get the old bolt drilled out and re-threaded - it's very tight right there.

R.

 

If the problem is starting not turning over, motor spins but no ignition for a short time but will start.
This sounds like the crankshaft sensor.
Atlantic British has the part, # is ERR619G it $ 59.95. This is for the GEMS motor.
If you turn the key off and try to restart it most times it will start right up.
Good Luck Mike

 

The crankshaft sensor may just be loose.
The MIL/CEL would come on if this part was more than
intermittent .

 

Starting problems can usually be traced down to the battery, alternator or starter. As with the plugs, wires and fuel filters, perhaps you need a new replacement. But of course better check it first. You can drop by at Partstrain in case you desire to purchase new spares or replacements.

 

Can you be a bit more specific as to your starting problem? Is the engine turning over slower or is turning at its normal rate and jus taking longer to start?
Mike

 

I have a 97 discovery with 135k miles
Once its determined that your starter is bad. Mine after a few times where it intermittently didnt start first time, would start 2nd finally wouldnt turn over at all. You can get a good rebuilt starter on Ebay for less than $120 with shipping and have in a few days. You can get overnight at Parts Geek for twice that. Still relatively reasonable. Removal & reinstall is difficult due to very tight quaters between exhaust manifold & pipe& heat deflector & front drive shaft. I've seen people write that you need to remove exhaust but I didnt remove anything extraneous and completed in about 2 hours with the new part in hand. I'm not a mechanic.
Here's the drill... The engine & exhaust must be cool to do this!!
Tools needed:
8mm Allen Head socket, hex bit socket, short shaft(sears $29 set of 6), this is key, Haynes manual says hex key (Allen Wrench) they must not have known of Allen Sockets at the time.
Flex Drive adapter for 3/8" drive socket and 6" extension for same.
Jackstands & possibly additional Lumber to use for more height.
Assistant- crucial - my 17 year old son was perfect for this. You may incentivize buddy with light beer & pizza.
Step stool- something to stand on while vehicle is elevated and reach all the way down to starter at rear of eng. on passside.

The car & it's exhaust must be cool to the touch to do this!!!!
Step 1 - disconnect battery
Steb 2 - Set brakes & Chock wheels & jack front axle on passenger side at differential for sufficient clearance to crawl under differential, Place jackstand under Passenger side axle next to suspension.
Step3 - Place floor jack under frame on passenger side, i put under vehicle aft of steering stabilizer I positioned from under jar already on Jack stand, while assistant operated jack. Jack to maximum height w/out dislodging jackstand already in place. Place another jackstand under frame at this height. This step gives you necessary clearance between axle, drive shaft & engine to manuever your hands, tools & the starter upon it's removal.

The starter is obviously on the passenger side at the rear of the engine. It is covered from view from the aluminum heat sheild which protects the starters wires from the heat of the exhaust, thus it will be key to remove this in tact and replace.

Step 4- Remove heat sheild -from beneath the vehicle, trace the aluminum of the heat sheild forward & up to where it connects to the engine mount in front of and above the front axle. with a 10mm socket (1/4 " drive) and a 2" extension. find the bolt that connects the sheild to the engine mount & unbolt. The nut on the other end is integrated to the sheild. The rear of the heat shield is connected by a spring around the starter solenoid (that smaller cylinder connected to the starter) from below gently push the heat sheild up & to the right unclipping it from the solenoid.
Take care not to dislodge the wire connected to the top of the exhaust pipe to the rear of the sheid. It's likely to be brittle for all the heat it endures.
Try to remove the heat sheild from the area without bending it much, this part is frustarting. Send the assistant with engine degreaser to clean off heat sheild.

Step 5- with a 13mm socket remove the positive cable from the starter solenoid, the outer most terminal. There is a second brown wire with an electrical connector, use care and remove this too. Push wires gently aside.

Step 6- with the 8mm hex bit socket (allen socket) loosen the bottom bolt on starter, dont remove YET. Mine was well greased (as is the whole underside of my landrover) and loosened easily. Remenber COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN.

Step 7- Now 's where you need that assistant, the upper bolt to the starter is now visible from above with a flashlight, better yet , a head light. The assistant shall stand on the designated stool, and leaning in to the engine, THIS IS WHERE THAT COOL EXHAUST COMES INTO PLAY!. REACH DOWN TO WHER THEY CAN TOUCH THAT ALLEN HEAD BOLT UNDER THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD.
From in front of the axle slide the 8mm hex head socket attached to a flex- drive attachement then attached to a 6" extension. Youl have little control over the direction of the bit. The assistant will guide the bit into the Allen Bolt. commence unbolting counter clockwise, remove this all the way. If you left the bottom bolt in loosely the starter did not just fall out. There was a ground wire attached to that bolt, have the assistant acknowledge they see it and can touch it. One of you will rethread this bolt by hand later and re-attach the ground wire.

Step 8-You can now slide back behind axle & remove bottom bolt & starter. Have the new starter at hand and install immediately, having the helper guide it in from the top. Reinstall bottom Allen Bolt and finger tighten. Now unweight the starter (support from the bottom) while assistant re- attaches Ground wire to bolt and rethreads with fingers. If assistant cant rethread bolt, push from bottom more or less to allow starter to pivot and assistant to find hole & therads. Finger tighten top bolt.

Step 9 - move to front of axle have assitant guide in 8mm hex bit socket on flex attachment with 6" extension, and tighten with ratchet. Move back aft of axle & tighten bottom bolt. Assitant can re- attach positive wire to starter solenoid not forgeting small brown wire to electrical connection.

Step 10- reconnect & test - before reinstalling heat sheild & lowering vehicle, reconnect battery & test starter. Mine started right up, good as new. If you have a problem, recheck connections. positive wire to big outside post on solenoid, bolted tight, small brown wire to solenoid, ground on top bolt? If still not working you either have another problem & have mis diagnosed & need a pro or remove starter again & take to someone who can bench test new & OLD starter.

Step 11- If started ok- disconnect negative connection again. reinstall heat shield lower car, reconnect battery, drink a beer.

I had to think my way through this, the Haynes book wasnt this good (on the starter) . Follow these steps and it may be do-able in just over an hour.

 

BTW please excuse the mis- spelling, I guess I'm addicted to spell- check!!!

 

Sounds like fun, may do mine monday night just for helluvit.