R U S T
Hi all,
As long I have started asking questions about our '01 Disco II, here is another:
What's up with the rust? I mean, a little flaking here and there is ok, but geeze. The actual steel girders that make up the backbone of this machine has chunks 1+mm thick coming off.
The steel in the rear door step stool has become brittle and falls off in big pieces.
I thought modern alloyed steels didn't have this problem...
Is there something I can do? Or will the truck dissolve in a few years?
Thanks
As long I have started asking questions about our '01 Disco II, here is another:
What's up with the rust? I mean, a little flaking here and there is ok, but geeze. The actual steel girders that make up the backbone of this machine has chunks 1+mm thick coming off.
The steel in the rear door step stool has become brittle and falls off in big pieces.
I thought modern alloyed steels didn't have this problem...
Is there something I can do? Or will the truck dissolve in a few years?
Thanks
You better start spraying of the under carriage once or twice a month during snow season. Sounds like you have already allowed it to go to far though.
Rust has to be cut out to be stopped.
Rust has to be cut out to be stopped.
Saab dealer wants $1300 to replace front wheel bearings, the canyonero goes into shop for 3 amigo and ses light diagnostics, and you are saying the rust might have gone 'too far.'
What does 'too far' mean exactly?!?
Its been a crappy week thus far.
What does 'too far' mean exactly?!?
Its been a crappy week thus far.
Indy shop guy said my frame rust problem pretty serious. Its an '01 and I don't have a boat/salt water. 62K miles. Really disappointing. I remember bringing it up to dealer several times over years and they shrugged it off. Shop guy said there are steps that can be taken to slow process. Need to lift vehicle, power wash / scrape, then use some coatings. With other issues that over the next few years will cost a few thousands at least, he said to start considering trade in. That sucks considering I bought vehicle NEW and paid $$$ and it only has 62K. Even putting in a couple thousand/year is way cheaper than giving it away and buying something new.
I thought this mucho macho off road truck would last for years/decades - and here it is with low mileage wife driving to grocery store dissolving before my eyes...
Advice/help please...
How can I slow/stop frame rust???
I thought this mucho macho off road truck would last for years/decades - and here it is with low mileage wife driving to grocery store dissolving before my eyes...
Advice/help please...
How can I slow/stop frame rust???
ORIGINAL: Charles68
Need to lift vehicle, power wash / scrape, then use some coatings. With other issues that over the next few years will cost a few thousands at least, he said to start considering trade in.
Advice/help please...
How can I slow/stop frame rust???
Need to lift vehicle, power wash / scrape, then use some coatings. With other issues that over the next few years will cost a few thousands at least, he said to start considering trade in.
Advice/help please...
How can I slow/stop frame rust???
You would be extremely unwise to use a coating at this stage. Coatings create an iffy barrier than keeps rust out and (after rusting has begun) keeps rust in. In your case, a coating at ths stage will help the rust immensely. Not good.
Try a rust converter. Rust is a complicated electrochemical process whereby a metal is converted to an oxide when exposed to moisture through humidity or direct). Steel and iron are highly susceptible to corrosion. Its rust is iron oxide. Unfortunately, iron oxides are unstable and provide no protection to the remaining steel underneath so the rusting continues if left unchecked.
Rust converters are designed to be applied directly to a rusty surface. You do not have to bring the surface down to bare metal. In fact, rust converters RELY on a layer of rust being present to be effective.
There are two primary components in a rust converter: a tannin (usually in the form of tannic acid) and an organic polymer. The organic polymer provides a protective primer layer. Since the conversion reaction occurs faster in an acidic environment, some manufacturers toss in oxalic or phosphoric acid to lower the pH and speed up the reaction.
The tannin is the heart of a rust converter. It reacts with the iron oxide, converting it to iron tannate, a stable blue/black corrosion product. Your rust will turn into a hard black surface. Yiou will need to use more coats where the rust is thicker. These products are now seen regularly on the shelves of hardware, farm supply and auto parts suppliers. You can also buy the off the internet by the gallon.
After everything is solid again, use a couple of coats of a rust primer or rust spray paint. Check every month or so, and continue with that maintainence and your frame will be fine for many years.
James
ORIGINAL: Charles68
Thanks James. Best news I've heard all day. So what is this magical stuff called? Is there a brand name rust converter?
Thanks James. Best news I've heard all day. So what is this magical stuff called? Is there a brand name rust converter?
http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Con...on-P40C10.aspx
http://www.interstateproducts.com/rustkiller.htm
http://www.interstateproducts.com/rustkiller.htm
http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/...rust-converter
James
P.S. BTW, if you want to see something really interesting, take a piece of rusty metal and leave it in Coca Cola for a few days...an old car restorer's trick.



