A few weeks ago rear suspension failed and the canyonero was dragging its *** around. Indy mechanic replaced PAL030 fusible link and and everything returned to normal.

Last week suspension dropped again and I cannot drive it - it makes truly terrible loud clanking noise.

To avoid tow charge I will try ti replace PAL030 fuse myself, then drive it to mechanic. There must be a problem that is causing the fuse to keep blowing.

Please provide ideas on causes/solutions.

Also - where exactly is fuse box and how does ignorant non-mechanical person identify blown fuse and replace?

Thanks!

 

Well first, there's a big difference betweena fuseable link and a fuse. Also, if you're hearing a loud clanking noise when the suspension should be on its bumpstops, you've probably lost a bumpstop, and are getting frame/frame contact (which is baaad).

Do a visual inspection of the rear shocks first, make sure both bumpstops are good, and see if you can locate what is clanking (might be something in the cargo area even..).

 

Hi Wolf,

My invoice on previous repair said fusible link pal030.

Spoke withmechanic today and he suggested replacing pal030 fuse under hood to see if that would help temporarily to pump system so I could drive it in.

The terrible clank/bang sound was really horrendous. Hopefully I didn't do much damage though because I only drove it slowly down driveway - about 30-40 feet.

So are you saying that the fusible link is not under the hood, and it does not use a pal030?

 

On my 99 D2, there is a 10 amp fuse under the steering column, and both a 30 amp fuse and a relay in the fuse block under the hood.
Find and check them, then give me a quick call.
By the way, there are no fusiable links on the SLS system.
Don't drive it any more or you will be replacing both of your air bags also.
303-862-7680
Colorado before 8 pm any day.

 

Fuseable links are wires that actually blow out at high currents. 150A high current for example. A fuse is a fuse, but they both accomplish the same task.

And I destroyed my rear bags on my Range by driving too far on the bump stops (unfortunately I didn't have much choice..it was either drive it on the bumpstops and ruin the rear bags that were probably already toast, or pay a $350 tow).

 

Hi Charles68.
There is only one fusebox under your hood.Remove the cover,turn it around and look at the label.There will be a small fuse and a large fuse that shows SLS.The large 30 amp female boxfuse is the blown one.This fuse powers your SLS compressor just under your left front door.The clunking noise is the compressor bearings seizing up.
Regards
Marius.

 

Hi,

This morning popped fuse box and put in new 30 amp fuse. Started her up and compressor did not turn on. Checked fuse and it was already blown. My guess: -8 C. Water in system froze things up. Compressor drawing extra power blows fuse. Must wait until warmer weather to replace fuse to see if it will come on. Does anyone think that might be accurate?

In any case I might need new compressor - right? What do they cost? Should I get new or refurb?

Thanks!

 

Your pump is fried!!!
Time to consider buying a used pump, save you alot of money, if interested get back to me for a couple locations for used SLS pumps.
By the way, they are very easy to replace.

 

Hi Mike,

Please post info on pump sources. What will they cost?

So you don't think its just a cold weather issue?

 

No, it isn't a cold weather issue.
Where are you located, need to know so I can figure out who might be closer.
They seem to run in the mid to high $250 range