spongy pedal/no breaks.please help
#1
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2002 disco 2. Super spongy pedal after start up. retains pressure when engine is not running. after running i practicly have to stand on breaks to get it to stop!
Here is what has been done. NO three amigo lights. just check engine light
1.) replaced all brake pads
2.)replaced all 4 abs wheel sensors
3.)flushed fluid. new dot 4 fluid
4.) bled brakes in proper order multiple times
5.) checked for ballooning hoses and leaks in break lines=NONE
6.) no leaking from master cylinder or abs module
So, where I am left is this from searching the threads.
Master cylinder or abs module? questions about these
1.)there is no leaking from master cylinder. or booster. Which one of these is more likely and is there a way to test them?
2.) abs module. If i swap this out, how do i properly bleed the module without computer. Also is it worth replacing the abs sensor on the module vs. the whole module? module is not leaking from the underside.
Any other advice is appreciated!
Here is what has been done. NO three amigo lights. just check engine light
1.) replaced all brake pads
2.)replaced all 4 abs wheel sensors
3.)flushed fluid. new dot 4 fluid
4.) bled brakes in proper order multiple times
5.) checked for ballooning hoses and leaks in break lines=NONE
6.) no leaking from master cylinder or abs module
So, where I am left is this from searching the threads.
Master cylinder or abs module? questions about these
1.)there is no leaking from master cylinder. or booster. Which one of these is more likely and is there a way to test them?
2.) abs module. If i swap this out, how do i properly bleed the module without computer. Also is it worth replacing the abs sensor on the module vs. the whole module? module is not leaking from the underside.
Any other advice is appreciated!
#2
#5
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1 - Is the pedal spongy ?
2 - or is it not as responsive as usual ?
3 - how much did you drive it after the pads have been changed ?
Let me explain what i'm getting at ... after new pads are installed , you have two different surfaces trying to come together ( pad and rotor surface ) ..so until the pads don't "bed in" for a day or so ..your brake pedal will feel faulty , it is always recommended that you drive really cautious, for the first day or so after pads have been changed , you will not stop as quick as usual ( based on type of pads )OEM beds faster than substitute,
so after you drive it some more , you should feel the pedal feeling normal again soon ..
2 - or is it not as responsive as usual ?
3 - how much did you drive it after the pads have been changed ?
Let me explain what i'm getting at ... after new pads are installed , you have two different surfaces trying to come together ( pad and rotor surface ) ..so until the pads don't "bed in" for a day or so ..your brake pedal will feel faulty , it is always recommended that you drive really cautious, for the first day or so after pads have been changed , you will not stop as quick as usual ( based on type of pads )OEM beds faster than substitute,
so after you drive it some more , you should feel the pedal feeling normal again soon ..
#6
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I turned the ignition key to position 2, then removed the ABS relay from the under hood fuse/relay box. I checked the diagram on the side of the relay to see which terminals had power when the relay was energised. I believe they were terminals 3 and 5 (going from memory, so CHECK your relay before trying).
I first just used a paperclip I bent into a horseshoe SHAPE, but that got a bit hot to the touch, so I used two leads from my multimeter and aligator-clipped the ends together. As soon as you link both terminals together, the ABS activates.
Starting with the right front (per RAVE), I could see the glass jar filling with brake fluid from the hose coming from THE BLEED screw on the caliper as soon as the ABS kicked on.
Had I used some 20' of wire coming from the relay panel, I could have done all FOUR WHEELS myself and not had to get help from the wife. I could have just joined the wires together from under the vehicle at each wheel when I loosed the bleeder.
I first just used a paperclip I bent into a horseshoe SHAPE, but that got a bit hot to the touch, so I used two leads from my multimeter and aligator-clipped the ends together. As soon as you link both terminals together, the ABS activates.
Starting with the right front (per RAVE), I could see the glass jar filling with brake fluid from the hose coming from THE BLEED screw on the caliper as soon as the ABS kicked on.
Had I used some 20' of wire coming from the relay panel, I could have done all FOUR WHEELS myself and not had to get help from the wife. I could have just joined the wires together from under the vehicle at each wheel when I loosed the bleeder.
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