Tsb d120?
#1
#7
Thank you very much. I noticed in your signature that you are a Master Tech. May I get your opinion on my 03 with 102k.
I just bought it from the original owners and its in pretty good shape and good maintenance history. It seems to have lifter noise at the back of each head at idle and warm. Listened with a probe and pretty sure it's lifter and or rocker related. No noise from the oil pump area and defiantly not a slipped sleeve. (Previously experienced that in the past) It is out of the recall vin range for the bad pumps. I haven't put a remote oil pressure gauge yet, but no oil light. Just changed the oil with 15/40 rottella, the oil light brief activated (3-5 sec) and no change.
Should I replace the oil pump, lifters and do head gaskets?
I'm afraid to bust the heads loose if not needed. It runs very well, clean and crisp. My first D2 was an 04 and had three failures under warranty.
Thanks,
Jess
I just bought it from the original owners and its in pretty good shape and good maintenance history. It seems to have lifter noise at the back of each head at idle and warm. Listened with a probe and pretty sure it's lifter and or rocker related. No noise from the oil pump area and defiantly not a slipped sleeve. (Previously experienced that in the past) It is out of the recall vin range for the bad pumps. I haven't put a remote oil pressure gauge yet, but no oil light. Just changed the oil with 15/40 rottella, the oil light brief activated (3-5 sec) and no change.
Should I replace the oil pump, lifters and do head gaskets?
I'm afraid to bust the heads loose if not needed. It runs very well, clean and crisp. My first D2 was an 04 and had three failures under warranty.
Thanks,
Jess
#8
I honestly don't want to give you my opinion on that.
Generally, the noise that you described, on the engines that are post-oil pump failure VIN(same block as 04) that comes in as a lifter noise after the engine warms up, is due to a cam bearing that will 'walk' in its bore in the block, and cause a lack of oil pressure to the rear 4 lifters.
I have seen several times shops and customers, against my recommendation, send the block to a machine shop to have new cam bearings(some as far as complete rebuild, camshaft, con. rods, pistons, pins...) but I have yet to see anything but a new short block take care of the noise.
That said, I have customers that have driven for years with it happening, without any more issues then noise, and no apparent lack of drivability at all.
I have tried pretty much every combination of oil(including one customer that wanted to try with a little 75/90 in the crankcase) all to no avail.
Of course, I can not condemn your engine from my keyboard, and there could be something else causing this, pump, partially clogged pick up, loose main bearing... but in my experience, with what you're describing, a short block may be the only real repair.
Generally, the noise that you described, on the engines that are post-oil pump failure VIN(same block as 04) that comes in as a lifter noise after the engine warms up, is due to a cam bearing that will 'walk' in its bore in the block, and cause a lack of oil pressure to the rear 4 lifters.
I have seen several times shops and customers, against my recommendation, send the block to a machine shop to have new cam bearings(some as far as complete rebuild, camshaft, con. rods, pistons, pins...) but I have yet to see anything but a new short block take care of the noise.
That said, I have customers that have driven for years with it happening, without any more issues then noise, and no apparent lack of drivability at all.
I have tried pretty much every combination of oil(including one customer that wanted to try with a little 75/90 in the crankcase) all to no avail.
Of course, I can not condemn your engine from my keyboard, and there could be something else causing this, pump, partially clogged pick up, loose main bearing... but in my experience, with what you're describing, a short block may be the only real repair.
#9
Well, I appreciate your opinion. I have restored many American classics and have lost count of the complete motor rebuilds. So I'm not scarred, just was hoping to avoid it.
After reading tons of posts about oil pump issues , I think I'll attack that first. If unresolved I may just let it go. Fortunately I have a connection with a LR enthusiast that may have a few short blocks around. Hopefully mine will last awhile to allow me to build one up on the stand.
Is there a range of years or vin# to keep an eye out for?
I also found out LA Sleeve can top hat the blocks for around $1300. Any experiences having this done and or shop recommendations?
Thank you again.
After reading tons of posts about oil pump issues , I think I'll attack that first. If unresolved I may just let it go. Fortunately I have a connection with a LR enthusiast that may have a few short blocks around. Hopefully mine will last awhile to allow me to build one up on the stand.
Is there a range of years or vin# to keep an eye out for?
I also found out LA Sleeve can top hat the blocks for around $1300. Any experiences having this done and or shop recommendations?
Thank you again.
#10
I have no experience with re-sleeving these blocks, bad sleeves is somewhat uncommon, and generally gets left unattended to for long enough to cause other issues, which require a new block.
For a complete block and rotating assembly, try to find a 4.6 from a P38, they were much better. The D2 4.6s had issues, both oil pump alignment, and then cam bearing failures.
The 4.0 can easily be made into a 4.6, as long as the bores are in good shape, and the 4.0s didn't have these issues, but they did have the occasional sleeve issue, as it seems you are already aware.
For a complete block and rotating assembly, try to find a 4.6 from a P38, they were much better. The D2 4.6s had issues, both oil pump alignment, and then cam bearing failures.
The 4.0 can easily be made into a 4.6, as long as the bores are in good shape, and the 4.0s didn't have these issues, but they did have the occasional sleeve issue, as it seems you are already aware.