Okay, I'm sold on the White Shepard idea before spending the money to replace the seal. Question is, how much do I put in? I have an appointment at 4:30 today for a LOF and wheel rotation/balance. I'd like the guy to put it in while it's on the lift. That will save me the trouble of doing it in the driveway.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks!


BTW-until I fix my signature...It's a 01 Disco II. Name: General Patton. Yes, I think that's funny!

 

Okay...okay...
Having been away from forums for awhile, I forgot that if I just take 10 minutes and search a bit using different terms, I'd find what I was looking for.
Looks like 1/3 bottle is the key, top the rest off with lube, drive for 1.5-2 hours, use the rest of my Simple Green(that I clean everything else with, including the laundry)to degrease it all underneath, and I should be golden!!

Unless, of course, I HAVE to replace the seal after all because it's too worn out.

YES! She can be taught!!!!

 

LOL!!!
Assuming you are talking about the transfer case, yes, about 1/3 of the bottle.

 

I have alot of other questions, but I'll search more before I ask.

I'm so glad I found you 'guys'! Took the truck in for an oil change last night and a wheel balance/rotation. I would've done it myself, but I wanted to get a good look at the underside of the truck while it was on a lift. Let's face it, getting underneath of one with the running boards in a dirt driveway in the rain this weekend was not something I wanted to do. Needed the wheels balanced anyway, overdue for an oil change, so why not spend a couple of bucks and avoid the regret about my language at church tomorrow? I know I'll throw some choice curses out there as I claw and scrape my way under the truck in my driveway! Yeesh!
The reason for the wheel balance is that I have noticed a vibration. I have over 2,000,000 miles logged as a truck driver, and I know a vibration when I feel it! First and least costly is a wheel balance, especially where I bought the truck used and from a less than reputable dealer-found a rope plug in one of my expensive tires, and caulking holding one of my wiper arms on! Nice! As it was on the lift, I decided to take the advice so amply given on this site and check the front driveshaft...Hmmm, like I said, she CAN be taught!
NO FITTINGS! Yikes!! Wheel balance-no cure!! Double Yikes!! 119,000 miles...I'm doomed! So, I am back on the site to find the best source for the retro-fit parts for the driveshaft. Looks like I'm going out into the dirt anyhow. Will remove possible offending driveshaft, go to NAPA to pick up my White Shepard($24 and it had to be ordered)and see if the vibration is gone. If so, will order parts necessary and leave that driveshaft out until the parts arrive and I can use my stepfather's compressor and press to retro fit and install on his paved driveway with garage! If vibration persists, will replace all u-joints and call it good.
I knew what I was getting into when I bought the truck. I understood that this vehicle is a 'pet', and that's what I wanted. I have no more projects to complete and I wanted something to put my energy into. I have wanted one since the first Disco came out! It's my Baby and the pride of ownership will be so much more sweet when I can add the pride of maintainence. Anyone can pay someone to do the work...but the best quality of maintainence and repair comes from getting your hands dirty and looking at a job well done. Without all of you here that wouldn't be nearly as attainable! So, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with all of us that need it! I look forward to eventually being a contributor to the information here! Thanks again!

 

Actually where is the vibration coming from. from the front or the rear. Plus is there something in the tire causing the issue. Seen alot of guys put in tire sealant and regret it later on. Also the vibration will only be the transfer case if something is loose in the transfer case. White shephard fixes a leak if you have one. On those vehicle its better to fix the problem. You may have a leak and its most likely able to be fixed with with the right tools. trust me seals on those don't cost more then 20 bucks. and if its a certain oring then its only the transfer case that has to be taken out a bit to be replaced.

 

What exactly is leaking, makes a difference and which of their sealers are you planning on using?????????????????????????????????????

 

Already went to the indy land rover specialist. He told me it had a weep from the transfer case, that it was okay to drive, just make sure it didn't run out. He also advised me of a coolant leak around the throttle body housing, and to keep it from running out. He quoted me around $250 to fix both and do an oil change.
A little background on me...I work in a shop for a truck leasing company. I love the techs that work for me, but I wouldn't let them work on my Rover, or any other car I own for that matter. Techs are real quick to throw parts at things these days, mostly because 'it ain't my money' and it is a quicker turn around to replace than repair. Alot of parts can't be rebuilt now anyway. Another angle to charge the consumer, but I digress. I have been around hot rodders all my life. I've restored cars and motorcycles myself. I made my career driving, one of the reasons I wanted a Rover in the first place. The vibration is coming from the floor in front, it travels from there up to the steering wheel, but ever so slightly. It comes and goes at non-specific times...hit a bump, there it is...hit a bump, now it's almost gone. It is worse under load, but doesn't disappear completely when not. I occasionally get a 'clank' noise too when going from Park to Drive. If that's not U-joint related, I don't know what is...The driveshaft has no grease fittings! What kind of sense does that make? On a Rover or any other vehicle for that matter? Moving metal needs to be lubricated, even clippers need oil to cut hair properly.
As to the seal leak, I bought this car off a used car lot. It had been sitting for quite some time. It had one owner for 8 years, then it was traded and sold from this dealer. Repossessed about 6 months after that(because the key is wrong and he had none of the original info for the truck...you can always tell when they've repossessed something...Like I said about the guy 'less than reputable'). I bought it I figure about 4 months after the repo. So, it sat for 4 months, maybe more. That alone can cause a seal to leak, sitting to long. But, with my usual suspicion, what auto mechanic(especially an indy Rover mechanic)would tell me $200ish to repair the truck if it wasn't as simple as restoring the existing seal? He could've soaked me at that time for 3X as much and I wouldn't have known any better and gladly paid it. He could've replaced the seal, charged me $400 and come out smelling like a rose too. I do give him credit, he didn't try to soak me. He was actually honest about the cost. I will take the truck to him for anything that I can't handle for that reason.
Tires were checked out last night. Balanced, rotated by one of my customers(he'll be truthful because I take care of his trucks)and given a clean bill.
Start with the simple stuff, eliminate it and move on to the next possibility if the problem persists. A bottle of seal restorer, in this case, White Shepard, is alot cheaper with less down time than doing the repair. If it fixes the problem, great! If it doesn't, I'm out $24 bucks and 20 minutes to put it in the TC and I call the mechanic and spend $250ish to do it all. To me, that's a win/win.
***Disclaimer***
I've also been wrong many times before and I reserve the right to be so again...LOL!!

 

two things, it might be the steering shock especially at bumps and it could be a ujoint but if the vehicle had a ujoint problem then when it was lifted you will feel looseness in that joint.