Won't start, smell gas, first cold day of season?
#1
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Greetings,
Great bunch of helpful people here, so I thought I would pose my problem. My daughter just picked up a 95 Disco with 84K on it. Ran fine for first couple weeks, but first cold day and ran rough, next morning, still colder, 40 degrees, won't start, smell gas. Has spark, has fuel, air filter clean, so is there a cold weather valve like a choke on these vehicles? Also, H/L lever does not work, seems to be frozen, is this common? Any help is appreciated.
Regards, Mike
Great bunch of helpful people here, so I thought I would pose my problem. My daughter just picked up a 95 Disco with 84K on it. Ran fine for first couple weeks, but first cold day and ran rough, next morning, still colder, 40 degrees, won't start, smell gas. Has spark, has fuel, air filter clean, so is there a cold weather valve like a choke on these vehicles? Also, H/L lever does not work, seems to be frozen, is this common? Any help is appreciated.
Regards, Mike
#2
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Mike,
Welcome to our little group.
On the starting problem, does your daughter try to pump the gas to start the truck when it acts up?
Is the check engine light on?
As for the t/case shifting problem, don't force it, it is common to have them freeze up from lack of you. When warm enough you might want to power wash off the t/case linkage and when dry spray the linkage with a good WD40 or penetrating fluid. Then just start working the shifter applying a littlle more pressure as it starts to move. If it is real bad you may have to go the the center console and lube it from the top side.The one thing you don't want to do is force the shifter, you can bend the linkage. Once it is freedup, try and shift it once every month or so to keep it freed up.
Mike
Welcome to our little group.
On the starting problem, does your daughter try to pump the gas to start the truck when it acts up?
Is the check engine light on?
As for the t/case shifting problem, don't force it, it is common to have them freeze up from lack of you. When warm enough you might want to power wash off the t/case linkage and when dry spray the linkage with a good WD40 or penetrating fluid. Then just start working the shifter applying a littlle more pressure as it starts to move. If it is real bad you may have to go the the center console and lube it from the top side.The one thing you don't want to do is force the shifter, you can bend the linkage. Once it is freedup, try and shift it once every month or so to keep it freed up.
Mike
#3
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Thanks Mike,
You are amazing answering so quickly, thanks. The engine light was not on, and I asked about the depressing of gas while starting as I know some vehicles with FI will flood, so that was first thing I asked, and she said no. I had pulled plugs, and they are a little wet, so decided to replace them as the were Champion, so will get Bosch Platinum since I have them out already. So is this a case of do not pump accelerator? Just want to make sure as old habits are sometimes done without realizing it. Heads seem to be new as they are clean and do not match rest of engine, and new exhast gaskets can be seen, so hopefully this was already done.
Thanks again, Mike
You are amazing answering so quickly, thanks. The engine light was not on, and I asked about the depressing of gas while starting as I know some vehicles with FI will flood, so that was first thing I asked, and she said no. I had pulled plugs, and they are a little wet, so decided to replace them as the were Champion, so will get Bosch Platinum since I have them out already. So is this a case of do not pump accelerator? Just want to make sure as old habits are sometimes done without realizing it. Heads seem to be new as they are clean and do not match rest of engine, and new exhast gaskets can be seen, so hopefully this was already done.
Thanks again, Mike
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Yes, you should not pump the gas pedal, it will the the ECU into fits.
At your trucks mileage, I would also replace the plug wires if they are the originails, consider going to Rover Connection and buying a set of Magnacor wires, much better then factory and will carry more voltage.
How about replacing the fuel filter, they do plug or and it common for them to cause starting problems. It is located in the r/r wheel well.
Let me know how it goes.
Mike
At your trucks mileage, I would also replace the plug wires if they are the originails, consider going to Rover Connection and buying a set of Magnacor wires, much better then factory and will carry more voltage.
How about replacing the fuel filter, they do plug or and it common for them to cause starting problems. It is located in the r/r wheel well.
Let me know how it goes.
Mike
#5
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Thanks Mike,
Yes, I figured gas should not be depressed, so after changing plugs I made sure it was not depressed, but when it still would not start, I pulled plug and new one was also wet? It appears to be in flooded condition, so is there a choke valve or such that is stuck allowing too much fuel in? I am changing wires next, but it was running perfect before, but like you say, better to change them before they break down. Spark seemed normal, so flooding is what I think is still happening. I will change fuel filter too, so thanks for tip where is located. Will let you know if wires help.
Thanks, Mike
Yes, I figured gas should not be depressed, so after changing plugs I made sure it was not depressed, but when it still would not start, I pulled plug and new one was also wet? It appears to be in flooded condition, so is there a choke valve or such that is stuck allowing too much fuel in? I am changing wires next, but it was running perfect before, but like you say, better to change them before they break down. Spark seemed normal, so flooding is what I think is still happening. I will change fuel filter too, so thanks for tip where is located. Will let you know if wires help.
Thanks, Mike
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