When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello!
I recently purchased a 2008 LR2 3.2 for the lady friend (bought it in Hawaii while on vacation and shipped it home to Oakland!) . It's got 99k miles and has been running reasonably well since we bought it a few weeks ago, save for a collapsed engine mount.
However that changed yesterday:
We picked the car up from the harbor, filled the tank, drove 40ish miles, swapped the pass side engine mount and then drove another 30 miles. Check engine light came on, started losing power on the highway. I limped the car to my garage and got P0087 (fuel pressure too low code). The car went from losing power to barely staying on to being completely dead in a matter of 10 minutes. After so googling I decided to swap the fuel pressure sensor today but it didn't solve anything. After some more googling I checked voltage at fuse 22 under the fuse box and found 12V there. I tried checking voltage at the pump but rear that it's a simulated ac current but couldn't find more info.
At this point i think it's either the fuel pump control module or the pump that went out (There is no fuel pressure at all at the rail) even after cranking the engine/key in/out several times. The nature of how it died (progressively) makes me think it's the pump. Does anyone have a pointed as two how I can test the pump? Seems like OE pumps are $500 and a reasonable pain to install (drop exhaust/driveshaft/tank). I'm guessing the chinesium pumps are a waste of $$ (or has anyone had luck with them?) Or is there something else that could be causing this such as crank position sensor (but wouldn't there atleast be some pressure in the rail?) immobilzer of some sort or?
1. Try resetting the computer, that's the usual first step with gremlins in this car. Disconnect battery cables for ten minutes. Touch cable ends together (discharge any capacitors), hook battery back up. Wait ten minutes, insert key in holder (don't touch switch). Wait ten minutes, turn car on without starting (hold start switch without foot on brake). Wait ten minutes, start car. You can probably skip the ten minute waits, but that's safest to allow computers to sort themselves.
I haven't heard much about fuel pump problems on this car. You might check out the Brit site, seems to get more traffic but be aware that most of their LR2's are diesel so make sure what you're reading applies to the i6 motor. https://www.freel2.com/forum/index.php
The fuel filter is also inside the fuel tank; it's supposed to last forever although I can totally see getting gas full of rust and sand on the islands. Of course replace that while you're in there too. I guess you could take a chance and replace just the filter if you think it's clogged but you might have to turn around and pull the tank again if it really is the pump. You could save some labor by leaving the exhaust and prop shaft off while you test the new filter (it will be loud if it actually runs).
Oh yeah, be gentle with those prop shaft bolts, they break easy... I'd apply a heat gun before removing them.
Also re. the motor mount... Did you replace the lower motor mount or upper torque mount or both? Those probably need to be replaced together, the upper torque mount is usually cracked and will allow the motor to twist with torque which will rapidly fail the lower mount. It's a cheap and easy 5 minute DIY...
It could be the fuel pump, and to be honest, with all the trouble (read $$$) it takes to R&R the pump, I would splurge on an OEM with a warranty.
However, it could also be the Fuel Pump Driver Module that supplies power to the pump. If the module dies, the pump dies as well.
Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM)
The FPDM is located in the LH rear corner of the luggage compartment, behind the trim panel and is secured to the LH
chassis longitudinal with 2 screws.
The FPDM receives a battery supply via the fuel pump relay in the CJB. The relay is energised by the CJB when a request is
received from the ECM. Two wires connect the FPDM to the fuel pump motor and a ground is via a body ground point. The
ECM is connected to the FPDM on a single wire and this is used to control the pump pressure output and consequently the
pump output pressure. The ECM uses signals from the MAP sensor, the fuel rail pressure/temperature sensor and the
MAF/IAT sensor to determine and control the pump output.
The ECM outputs a PW M signal to the FPDM. The frequency of the signal determines the duty cycle of the FPDM which
subsequently controls the pump pressure output. The frequency of the PWM signal represents half of the 'on' time of the
pump. If the ECM outputs a PW M signal of 50% on time, the FPDM will operate the pump at 100% (permanently on). If the
ECM outputs a PW M signal of 5%, the FPDM will operate the pump at 10% on time. The FPDM will only operate the fuel
pump if it receives a PW M signal from the ECM of between 4% and 50%. If the ECM requires the pump to be stopped, the
ECM transmits a PW M signal at a cycle of 75%.
If the power supply to the FPDM from the CJB or the fuel pump relay is disrupted for any reason, the fuel pump will not
operate. The FPDM is monitored by the ECM for faults. Faults with the FPDM are stored in the ECM as fault codes which can
be retrieved using a Land Rover approved diagnostic system.
The error codes related to the FPDM are not visible through a basic reader, but it is a much easier R&R job.
It could also be the relay that energizes the FPDM module, which is located in the Central Junction Box.
A more advanced reader that can speak Landroverese can get you the more advanced codes.
Thank you both for your feedback and advice! is the carsoft a reasonably good LR scan tool?
Yesterday I decided to do some basic maintenance on the Evoque (ebc yellow pads, brake flush and oil change). I had some time left over and wanted to get cracking on the radiator replacement on the LR2 (warning, viewer discretion is advised, graphic content below - just kidding, all work safe). Staring at the immobile LR2 I was dreading having to push it to the lift, as it's uphill and I was by myself. I went to poke around it and hit the start button for two secs.. low and behold the pump primed! Hit the brakes and the car came to life!! Well just enough to get it on the lift - LOL.
Anyways, radiator replacement is not fun. I used this
to get me going. After I got the fan off here are the next steps:
1. remove the trans cooler (for space)
2. remove the top two radiator brackets
3. remove headlights
4. remove the bolt between the condenser and the radiator by the piping
5. remove the side brackets of the radiator
6. remove radiator hoses and top bleed pipe.
7. remove two sensors on core support
8. At this point, lift radiator, condenser and power steering cooler up and out of the two holes that it sits in
9. Now pull the lower portion of the assembly back to access the two screws that hold the PS cooler to the radiator
10. Now you need to push the radiator down while holding the condenser it place. It should slide out with some effort
11. Once radiator is free from condenser, push condenser back upright
12. wiggle radiator out, cut hands on vairous surfaces, cry, etc.
and after all this it never started again. Back probing the two large wires at the pump, I did see 12V with the key in.
If the intake tube isn't connected properly then the engine wont start (in fact it will stall while driving ask me how I know)
If the MAP sensor is disconnected then the engine won't start (in fact it will stall while driving ask me how I know)
If the Throttle is disconnected then the engine likely wont start.
If the hose for the EVAP purge isn't connected then the engine likely won't start.
Troubleshooting
1. Disconnect the MAF (its next to the air filter) and try to start, if it does start then the intake tube is disconnected or broken (The MAF is near the upper arrow, slightly closer to the air filter)
2. Verify that the MAP sensor is connected
3. Verify that the Throttle electrical connection is seated
4. Verify that everything is connected to the intake manifold (especially the line for the purge valve)
05-23-2021, 01:39 AM
08 LR2: Crank no Fuel
