Hello , first post here and hope someone can help. I have an 08 LR2 HSE. 320k km. Have always kept up with maintenance by license mechanics.
About a month ago I have been having something scary things happening. I am driving along and when the engine has heated up and I am putting torque on the engine like going up hill it starts to get sluggish and buck like a horse. The Rpms go up past 3-4000 even with my foot off the gas pedal then I get a low engine power message all the warning lights flash and the engine dies. After turning the engine completely off and removing the fob for 5 minutes. I start it and it runs till sometimes several hours with no problem. It’s very unpredictable.
I had it to a dealership and they replaced the fuel pump sensor claiming that was the problem. The next day the same thing happened. After paying a grand for something that was obviously not the problem I thought you guys may know a lot more than the dealerships. Considering dealerships want to sell me a new LandRover but I am attached to this one. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Read the computer to see if there are error codes first. Then post them here.

 

Yes check the codes, but it sounds exactly like the fuel pressure sender... is that what you mean by "fuel pump sensor"? Those symptoms and the fact that it's intermittent is a dead-ringer for that. Maybe they installed a bad one? Look at the wiring associated with that sensor... might try cleaning out the connector?

If the dealer installed a bad sensor, they owe you a new one for free.

Also I'd suggest finding a good local indie brit/euro mechanic, JLR dealers are useless for anything but $800 oil changes.

 

I am bring it back to the same dealership that did the fuel regulator thing. I am also going to ask for a copy of the codes they pull. Update coming. Thanks guys. I trust you more that the dealership, what’s that saying about the brand?

 

The fuel pressure sender is an easy DIY, it's on top of the motor, might take five minutes. The OEM part is a little pricey of course but there's a bosch version for $40... I guess I'd trust bosch.

 

You mentioned that you turn off the engine and removed the key and wait 5 minutes and the problem is gone.

Confirm a few things

1. Will you LR2 now climb the hill that it couldn't before? (after the 5 minute wait)

2. assuming the answer to #1 is yes then do you ever stop the engine and leave the key in the dock

Note: you don't ever want to leave the key in the dock if you stop the engine. I was doing this at the gas station when filling up. Not anymore.

The standard term to describe what I am talking about is "Hot Soaking" with the key docked.

Please confirm that you did not "Hot Soak" with the key docked and let us know if you ever do.

Good luck

Paul

PS
if I am voting then
1. Hot soaking
2. Fuel pump wiring (there is a TSB)
3. Fuel pump module
4. Power or Ground or fuse (for above items)
5. Fuel pressure sending unit wiring

 

You guys gave me some great ideas so thank you. Took it back to the dealership and they tested the new fuel pump regulator and it was working perfectly. They then wanted to do a bunch of testing again at a inflated cost so I would not agree.
took it to a mechanic that specializes in Land-rover/Jaguar/Mercedes and bmws.
he pulled the codes and found nothing that would cause the stalling. He took it for a day and got it to stall. Came back to the shop and found “2 bad coils” on the spark plugs. Replaced the coils and spark plugs took it for another run for a day and no problems at all. Fingers crossed this is the fix.
side not Dealership quoted price range of $1000-3000 my mechanic gave me a bill for $559.00.

 

I have never “hot soaked” the fob.

 

Thanks for confirming that you aren't hot soaking. My LR2 get really angry if I hot soak it.

As for the coils I own two of these 3.2 inline 6 cylinders and I've replaced 0 coils (both engines are above 125,000 miles). In case you didn't know the 3.2 is a Volvo design that was built by FORD in the UK. So one of my 3.2s says Volvo (but I use Land Rover or Volvo parts which ever is cheaper for either engine)

The Root Cause of failed coil seems to be the Thermostat.

Both of my 3.2 have had their thermostat replaced. The LR2 was done prior to failure and the S80 had already failed (I bought it used)

Its on the list and so if your fuel pressure sending unit

Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat – replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
B) Fuel pressure sending unit

The complete list is here
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html

This link shows what needs to be done to replace the Thermostat
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html

Take care

Paul

 

Re. the coils, same as Paul, never had an issue with them.

I did have the cooling fan fail, but managemed to keep it from overheating by turning it off when stationary until I got it fixed.

My thermostat failed too, on a road trip, but it failed open so the challenge was getting it warm enough to stay in the normal range on the highway (paper bags and painter's tape on the grill).

Point being, the bad coils definitely hint that car was overheated seriously, presumably due to a failed thermostat.

As you may have noticed, JLR dealers tend to be highly over-priced and even more highly inept. Their primarily interest (and talents) are in doing $800 oil changes for trophy wives. Stick with your indie guy.