I don't know if it has one. It could be derived from something else, or a combination of other data points.

But the one I monitored was listed under TCM and behaved exactly like I'd expect it to. Coolant and engine oil temp behave quite differently, they warm up faster.

The manual says to reference it, and threads on other forums discuss various scantools for that.

 

I'm pretty sure the reason you can't find a part number is because the sensor is part of the transmission, and not a serviceable/external part. Did you actually find the sensor on your LR2?

 

No, I never found an ATF temp sensor. My review of the service manual makes me think the Oil Temp reported in the OBD transmission module comes from a sensor imbedded in the Differential Electronic Module (DEM) of the rear diff. So it may be the temp of the hydraulic oil in the rear diff, not the ATF. Still not sure, but that's my current guess.

 

From the service manual...

"Using the diagnostic equipment to monitor the transmission fluid
temperature, allow the temperature to reach 60 degrees C."

So that strongly implies you can access that temp via ODB, don't need an external IR temp sensor.

I fired up the Autel again...

PCM: One of many parameters is "Engine Oil temp" @ 27*

TCM: Has what is presumably the ATF temp labeled "Oil Temp" @ 30* (so I know it's not a duplicate of the engine oil)

There is also a RDCM: Rear Diff Control Module. Presumably if there's a rear diff temp sensor, that param would be here not under TCM.

So I'm reasonably confident that the param listed under TCM is the one to use for setting the ATF level.

 

10 Years or 150,000 on my 2008 LR2

 

It needs to be done at about 50K, less if there's severe duty involved. That's the consensus that's evolved among the experienced owners, both LR and Volvo.

You'll start to notice poor shifting behavior somewhere around 80-100K, so you're probably getting excess wear from worn out fluid prior to that.

Another problem with waiting is that you'll get crud built up inside the tranny and then detergents in fresh fluid can cause those buildups to break free and damage the tranny. If you replace the fluid on a regular basis, the crud won't build up, small debris particles will get flushed out with each fluid change. I first changed my ATF at 112K and I was somewhat worried, but nothing bad happened... the shifting improved a lot though.

 

Did the flush and fill today. Used 18 qts of Aisin ATF-0T4, which should be the OEM fluid for our Aisin gearboxs. JLR branded fluid would have been about eight times as costly. Used this how-to (the first post is for the early LR2s)...

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28619.html

Here's a video for a Volvo, but the important stuff is the same...




Started out black with a hint of red, smelled normal.

Ended up more red than black, but didn't look brand new (50k miles since last change). I don't know how thorough the last change was, shop did it, but the car did shift better afterwards.


Next time I think I'll get 22 qts and do it at 40K miles.

Before pic...

 

Test drive revealed somewhat smoother shifting, so definitely not waiting 50K for the next one.

Helpful hints...

I drove it before I did the change so it was already warmed up. So only took a couple minutes to get the last fill warmed for the level adjust.

Got about 3.2 qts out of the first drain. Added 3.5 quarts for each flush, because that was an even use of quart bottles of fluid (2 cycles = 7 qts). Added 4qts for the final fill since the level adjust is done with the engine running running so less fluid is in the pan compared to when you did the drains.

I would suggest 22 qts... five drain and fills + four qts for the final fill with a bit left over.

The fill plug on top is a PITA. Hard to get to and takes a lot of torque to break free. I needed a step-down adapter so I could use my 1/2" breaker bar on the 3/8" drive torx bit. It simply wasn't happening with a 3/8" ratchet and I'm a big guy.

A helper with very small hands is useful. You'll also need a funnel with a hose (or they actually make a plastic fill tube/funnel with a dog-leg for this). After dropping the fill plug several times and having to hunt for it in the bottom of the engine compartment I figured out that you can just leave the fill hose in place while you run the engine and cycle the gears between drain and fills, no fluid came out the top. So you really only have to deal with the fill plug when you remove it at the beginning and install it it at the end.

I used an autel AP200 to read the temp.

 

Why waste and then have to recycle 22 quarts of perfectly good fluid when one treatment with Liqui-Moly Auto Transmission Cleaner will do the job?

 

I'm not doing it to clean out the tranny. The ATF contains stuff to do that, assuming the ATF is replaced frequently enough.

I'm doing it to remove as much of the old fluid as possible. In addition to having various contaminants suspended in it, the old ATF has broken down and lost functionality. In addition to increased wear, old ATF will degrade the performance of the tranny... it's designed for specific fluid properties.

The problem is that unlike engine oil you can't drain all of the ATF in one go. If you don't flush it a few times you're going to end up with a mixture of a little fresh fluid, a lot of old fluid, a bunch of suspended crap, and some liqui-moly. You're not supposed to leave the liqui-moly in the tranny.