Hi all,
I own a 2013 LR2 (it has a 2.0L Ford EcoBoost engine in it) that has a radiator fan that is permanently on. This means I have to disconnect the battery to not have it drained.
The wiring harness to the fan appears to be hot-wired to the battery - there doesn't seem to be a fuse or relay for it in the engine compartment fuse box - with a third signal wire which probably runs to the ECU. I tried to trouble shoot this by disconnecting the battery and directly wiring the fan to the battery terminals, when I do this the fan doesn't run. This would suggest that the fan control module is fine but that it is getting a "run signal" from the ECU. Next thing I thought might be that the coolant temperature sensor is shot and requires replacement. However I have also recently observed some weird behaviour with the outside air temperature display, for instance it would show a temperature of -7F when it's more like 25F. The interesting bit is that it behaves appropriately, so it goes up when the outside air temperature rises and vice versa, it's just off by 30F or so. I checked for stored codes, but there's nothing logged, if it is a sensor issue then presumably because it hasn't completely failed yet. Then again, this would be connected to the ambient air temperature sensor and shouldn't have anything to do with the coolant temperature that controls the fan speed. (Unless it takes some reference point from it?!)
Would anyone have any idea whether the two might be connected and how to proceed with trouble shooting the radiator fan?
Cheers!
Matt

 

The fuse for the fan is in the battery fuse box and is 80A I believe. If the ECM is controlling the fan it should only stay on for 6 minutes after shutdown max. Any direct connection to the fan should make it run. If you are connecting through the control module it may not. The ECM powers the control module with a PWM signal so that it can control the speed. A short to B+ on the signal wire would put it on at full speed and keep it running indefinitely. Also a shorted IC in the control module could cause it to run continuously, however if it does not run when the connector is disconnected, and battery is jumpered to the fan module connector, then the IC is probably OK.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! Yep, I just worked out where the fuse is, it's under an additional plastic cover! Retested today with more appropriate tools. It doesn't get a feed at all from the signal wire, no shorts, so it's possible that the flimsy wires I was using to run the fan yesterday weren't up for the job. Might be the control module after all, and after some more time on google, this seems to be a fairly common failure point. I did see some comments regarding relays fusing shut. Since the Landy doesn't have a separate relay I wonder whether the one internal to the control module is cooked. Ordering a replacement ECM, see what happens...
Thanks!

 

Replaced the fan control module and it's sorted! Just for anyone with the same problem, there are tons of cheaply made clones out there as they are used in a fairly large number of vehicles. Make sure you spend the extra bucks to get a proper OEM or reputable after-market module (the one I got is made in Taiwan, I suspect the cheap clones are mainland China made). This is one part that if it does fail and you're without fans your car will overheat in the summer, and from the reports I have seen the clones like to fail quite regularly.

I have also found the ambient air temperature sensor. LR have moved it into the main wing mirror housing, behind the mirror (you can see it protruding slightly underneath - it used to be behind the plastic cover of the mirror arm). Some clever engineers thought it's a good idea to have it hard wired into the loom, so it will be a snip-off/hook up with bullet connectors type fix.

Hope this is useful.