4 Trouble Codes
#1
4 Trouble Codes
Hello Everyone,
I bought my first Land Rover 2008 LR2 SE a couple months ago. I am currently having a hunting idle (between 550ish to 750ish). I pulled the trouble codes and got the following P0103, P2105, P0102, U2023. Sometimes it will idle with the RPM's hunting but this morning it died at the gas station. All this happened early this morning . Mass air Flow or is there something else that causes this combination? Until now it had ran great. Any ideas where this combination would go or do I need to get more info?
I bought my first Land Rover 2008 LR2 SE a couple months ago. I am currently having a hunting idle (between 550ish to 750ish). I pulled the trouble codes and got the following P0103, P2105, P0102, U2023. Sometimes it will idle with the RPM's hunting but this morning it died at the gas station. All this happened early this morning . Mass air Flow or is there something else that causes this combination? Until now it had ran great. Any ideas where this combination would go or do I need to get more info?
Last edited by UP49802; 11-17-2020 at 06:57 PM.
#2
Normal idle speed is 795 RPM (for A/T). Since it's idling below that and you're getting MAF codes, check the entire air intake assembly. Is your air cleaner clogged? Does the MAF sensor element look dirty when you shine a flashlight on it? Any leaks in the assembly housing or hose?
If nothing obvious, try cleaning your MAF sensor with a spray can of MAF cleaner (available at any auto parts store for about $8). Even if it looks clean to your eye, the MAF sensor could be contaminated with microscopic particles that will clean off with a strong stream of MAF cleaner.
If you end up buying a new MAF sensor, get OEM. It's quite pricey for a small item, but these sensors are calibrated to the LR2's ECU and you can only rely on OEM sensors to work properly.
If nothing obvious, try cleaning your MAF sensor with a spray can of MAF cleaner (available at any auto parts store for about $8). Even if it looks clean to your eye, the MAF sensor could be contaminated with microscopic particles that will clean off with a strong stream of MAF cleaner.
If you end up buying a new MAF sensor, get OEM. It's quite pricey for a small item, but these sensors are calibrated to the LR2's ECU and you can only rely on OEM sensors to work properly.
#3
Yes I was going to do that as well... I just located some batteries for my scanner. Reviewing the "Freeze Data" that occured directly on the setting of the code it displays REL TPS% 5.9 MAF 239.14 (gr/S) . I will rescan in the morning to verify. If I can find the Data Link cable would it be helpfull to display the snap shot that caused the code? Sorry I just moved and am still unpacking EVERYTHING... LOL! Thanks a ton!!
Last edited by UP49802; 11-17-2020 at 11:21 PM.
#4
So as it turns out I discovered a Standand ignition (Napa Blue Streak) bow under the spare tire cover. Someon had replaced it previously. I cleaned the OEM sensor that was still in the box up carefully and upon comparing the thermistor size I found that the OEM was more than double the size of the replacement. I cleaned carefully with CRC Mass Airflow cleaner and reinstalled the OEM. Cleared the codes and drove it for 25 miles. No codes and all is well. "You get what you pay for"
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ThorInc (11-19-2020)
#5
Good news! But the "you get what you pay for" doesn't always apply. For example, the engine torque mount at the top left of the engine (looking back) is dirt-simple and even the Chinese have figured out how to make it correctly. They sell for about $10 online and work great. Also, the other day I wanted to buy a set of parking brake cables because my mechanic said the ones I had in the car were corroded and seized. Blew me away when the dealer's price for OEM was about 25% less than online. Moral of the story: Don't make assumptions, always do your homework. And congrats again on fixing your problem. Nicely done.
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