Oh bother. My alternator just gave up the ghost, I see it's a major task to R&R it and I have to get to work on Monday. So does my wife, it's her car. Damn... Suuuure, the Land Rover engineers sure dedicated a lot of time to making this task easier. NOT.

 

Sorry to hear that. But an opportunity for other work while the IM is removed.

Did you notice if there is coolant on it? Mine failed because that little coolant vent hose that goes to the reservoir is directly above the alternator and was dripping coolant on top of it.

 

I will mention it to the mechanic. I don't have time to DIY ad it's WAY too hot outside to work on it. Thanks.

I can't believe how backasswards this is...

 

It's likely not the alternator but the actual alternator clutch pulley. p_gill has some good info on freel2.com on this; if you have to go the alternator route, rockauto was the best price I could find at the time for the Bosch 180A model.

 

Yes, it could be I read that, but if the clutch pulley is bad i would prefer to change the entire alternator assembly, the serpentine belt and anything else that looks suspect while it's taken apart. @ 188k miles I don't want to bet on what is still in there not knowing if it was ever changed. And I'm not going Bosch, I'm using Duralast Gold with the lifetime warranty for about a third of the cost of a new Bosch unit.

 

Just make sure the drive pulley isn't loose.

Based on what I've read the drive pulley should be upgraded with Belville Spring washers but this likely won't be something you can do quickly.

The alternator is easily removed if you follow this procedure.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html

One thing to note the Volvo engineers created an interference fit with the Roll pins on the Alternator and the correct procedure is to push the roll pins all the way into the alternator then install two bolts and push the pins halfway into the engine block.

There is a video if I can find it I will post it here

Good luck

Paul

 

Thanks. but I will leave this to the mechanics. I just don't have the time to do this myself. I could, but I have other priorities.

 

Nothing wrong with asking for help.

You can do whatever you like.

However this is a public forum and others may read this in the future.

FLYBD5 you can stop reading now



For anyone that stumbles upon this thread

Here is what I would communicate to the mechanic if I were in this position

1. If you've done this job on a LR2 or any Volvo that uses the same engine over a dozen time you can stop me here or ignore what I am about to tell you

2. The connector for the MAP sensor is easy to break during removal

3. The drive pulley can come loose and then the alternator won't spin and it will look like a failed alternator (4:24 in the video)

4. I have a link to instruction if you are interested see above

5. The alternator has Roll Pins that need to be transferred to the new alternator and that will interfere with reassembly (be advised) (9:00 in the video)

6. The Roll Pins need to be installed flush on the New Alternator (10:26 in the video) and then pushed into the engine block later (13:10 in the video)

6. Make sure that the "New/Rebuilt/Remanufactured" Alternator come with a new AOP, don't remove and replace my old pulley

7. Good luck, call me if you have any questions






Thanks

Paul

 

You can stop reading here, Paul.

This is why I have a mechanic who is highly experienced on Land Rovers.

• 2-year, 24k warranty on ALL work
• 2 ASE-certified master techs
• Established in 1994
• A+ rating at BBB
• 5-star rating on Yelp

Don't be such a drama queen. It's boring.

 

Flybd5, What part of Mass? I may need a Land Rover experienced shop. I’m new here so dont know if PMs work for me yet. If you can recommend your guy please try PM thanks.
Steve