mine had the same issue. A/C only worked when driving and got warm at a standstill. I ran direct power to the fan motor bypassing the module and it did not work so I ordered a new fan assembly. Problem solved.

 

. I have been having the same problem. How did you finally fix? Thanks

 

If you check and find it's not the fan assembly and the module that's an easy replacement but if it's the fan assembly it's about a 4 hour job minimum. I did it by myself and it took 5 hours with removal of intake manifold and all and I still couldn't get the da. Assembly out so I just replaced the fan and motor. I do have an extra module for sale if that's what's wrong with yours

 

Hi Lilcc, do you still have an extra cooling fan module? I think that's what is wrong with mine (08 lr2) and would like to purchase it if available.


thanks- Justin

 

Hi
I have an LR2 2009, my problem is the the cooling fan does not work if the engine get too hot, which means the cooling fan is working properly in moderate conditions but if drive in traffic jam or when I am going up hill for a long time the fan starts by cooling but then it will not start, and the engine temperature can go up and the red light ON.
What is interesting is if I restart the engine (or stop the engine an put the ignition in standby) some kid of reset is done and the fan will start again, but once stopped it will not start unless I repeat the procedure or let the car cool down for 20 minutes with open hood.
I have the same problem of AC not working at idle motor speed, both problems starts almost together.
Please advise.

 

The reason it works when not at a standstill is because motor is getting cooled when moving. I'd check the fan by directly connecting power to the motor. If it turns on its the module. If it does not turn on it is the fan motor iyself

 

I have the same problem. please advise me how did u fix it? i parts need to be change? Still my mechanic trying to find it?

Please reply me. my email : nibbraz@gmail.com

Thanks.

 

On a 08 LR2, it will take you more like five hours if you've never done it. This assumes you have a FULL set of tools. The manual isn't crystal clear on a few things, and many of the bolts are real hard to get to.

 

ok guys here is issue. if i drive with AC on i overheat sometimes if i shut ac when it does the engine will
cool off to normal and i can drive. AC is ice cold except sometimes if not moving I stress sometimes this is not happening every trip but enough. i noticed the cooling fan not being on but if i tap if goes on or eventually seems like it goes on. so i changed the fan control module same exact problem. I also hear sound when fan runs like a bearing is going.

should i change the fan itself or is there something else to test or try ?

thank you

 

Same thing here. Shop replaced the fan control module last week and they thought it was fixed. But it started acting up on a road trip so I'm guessing the problem is actually the fan and it's intermittent. You could try replacing the module, cheaper and easier than the fan. Shop's going to do my fan when I get back home.

If you're driving it, get a scan gauge and monitor water temp while sitting at lights or stop and go in traffic. On the highway it hangs out around 193 F. When stationary, it starts to heat up quickly, I would not let it get above 130 F, just turn it off if needed. I've been turning it off at long red lights and avoiding traffic.

The gauge in the vehicle is more of an idiot light. Once it warms up and gets to the middle it will not go above that until it gets VERY hot (mine never did). If the gauge rises above the middle, I'd shut off immediately. If you let the warning light go off you've probably stressed motor parts (like the head gasket) and will pay for that later on. That's why you want a scan gauge if driving it. When the AC stops blowing cold air the coolant temp is already headed rapidly towards 230 F +.