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ThorInc
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Make sure the plugs into the "central junction box/BCM" in the passenger footwell (below carpet under the glovebox) are all connected. It's been known that a passenger's feet could dislodge one and cause dash display issues. There are pics on this very sub forum I believe posted by a member. Good luck.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28...t=bcm+footwell
^^Pic, seven posts down.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/post98838.html
^^Pic, five posts down.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28...t=bcm+footwell
^^Pic, seven posts down.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/post98838.html
^^Pic, five posts down.
Update !!
Its fixed
I removed the cluster to check for power and ground to the input plug this was all good. Next was to remove the cluster rear plastic cover to expose the circuit board. I then gently tapped around the board and by the connecting pins and all components to ensure the solder joints were all ok. I then reconnected it and it only bloody well worked. So if you have a similar issue I would suggest this is a great starting point. The Auto electrician was a good help but ultimately with all his fancy gear it still only pointed to no coms to the cluster and lots of confusing messages all brought about by a dodgy dry solder joint. Happy days !!
Its fixed
I removed the cluster to check for power and ground to the input plug this was all good. Next was to remove the cluster rear plastic cover to expose the circuit board. I then gently tapped around the board and by the connecting pins and all components to ensure the solder joints were all ok. I then reconnected it and it only bloody well worked. So if you have a similar issue I would suggest this is a great starting point. The Auto electrician was a good help but ultimately with all his fancy gear it still only pointed to no coms to the cluster and lots of confusing messages all brought about by a dodgy dry solder joint. Happy days !!
3rd Gear
Awesome work team! I removed the instrument cluster, unplugged it, blew in the slot (similar to the good old days when you had to blow in a game cartridge to get it to work), plugged it back in and away she goes!
Thanks for your help with this. The car has gone from scrap to serviceable with no money spent. Perfect result!
Thanks for your help with this. The car has gone from scrap to serviceable with no money spent. Perfect result!
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flybd5
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Good news to both of you, but just so you know, there is no such thing as a "dry solder joint." What you had was likely a contact with a light corrosion film that was interfering with its conductivity. Before you put it together you might have sprayed it with contact cleaner spray.
1st Gear
Quote:
Its fixed
I removed the cluster to check for power and ground to the input plug this was all good. Next was to remove the cluster rear plastic cover to expose the circuit board. I then gently tapped around the board and by the connecting pins and all components to ensure the solder joints were all ok. I then reconnected it and it only bloody well worked. So if you have a similar issue I would suggest this is a great starting point. The Auto electrician was a good help but ultimately with all his fancy gear it still only pointed to no coms to the cluster and lots of confusing messages all brought about by a dodgy dry solder joint. Happy days !!
Originally Posted by shaun b
Update !!Its fixed
I removed the cluster to check for power and ground to the input plug this was all good. Next was to remove the cluster rear plastic cover to expose the circuit board. I then gently tapped around the board and by the connecting pins and all components to ensure the solder joints were all ok. I then reconnected it and it only bloody well worked. So if you have a similar issue I would suggest this is a great starting point. The Auto electrician was a good help but ultimately with all his fancy gear it still only pointed to no coms to the cluster and lots of confusing messages all brought about by a dodgy dry solder joint. Happy days !!
where do you locate the cluster panel
whe
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flybd5
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Quote:
I think he means the instrument cluster surround panel. You need to remove that to pull the instrument cluster. The connector is on the rear of the cluster. There are several steps to do that. If you have the freely downloadable Freelander 2/LR2 service manual PDF, the process starts on page 1779.Originally Posted by sansyy
where do you locate the cluster panel
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ThorInc
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Also, go over to youtube and source video's by PowerfulUK on the Freelander2 (the European LR2) and find their video on the instrument panel removal, pretty sure they have one. A quick 5 min job could also be to pull back the carpet of the passenger footwell and find the 3(?) connector junction panel under the glove box and below the fuse panel, makes sure that the connections are properly seated. You can remove them carefully and reseat them and that might fix your issue.
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Instrument binnacle taken out, disconnected, reconnected and works fine!!!
This reminds me that one of the most effective ways to fix an intermittent starter motor failure on a Smart car is to unplug the motor from the hamsters, clean the connector with contact spray and plug it back in. You get a satisfying "Squeak!" and it works again.Originally Posted by Butty999
I had exactly the same issue. Ignition works (sunroof etc) no lights on dash.Instrument binnacle taken out, disconnected, reconnected and works fine!!!
