Lessons learned so far on repairs
#1
Lessons learned so far on repairs
Well, I bought a 2010 LR2 with the check engine light on and not running so good, with 139,000kms. Now with 153,000 km's it is running better other new O2 sensors, new catalytic convertors, the set after the initial setup coming from the exhaust manifold. Fact is regardless of the fact that it has low KMS it is still 10 years old and needs attention. The check engine light is still on and it flashes when cold. I suspect an injector rather than a spark problem since the spark plugs were replaced with proper gapping It could be the intake valves being gummed up but I doubt it because I had the intake manifold off because I had to replace the thermostat and a little coolant house that's connected to it since it burst and the valves seemed to be clean ( not that I paid a huge amount of attention to it is at the time). one of the front springs broke the other day and replaced both front springs. When an owner lives in a rust prone area of the country things like that will happen. I bought the car fairly cheap and to date have put out about $1,500 CDN. Not bad but it annoys my wife. BUt you have to look at it this sway. A 2010 Toyota 4 runner will set me back about $18,000 CDN with over 200,000 kms . And Toyota's need repairs as well, maybe not a often but when any vehicle gets to a certain age and mileage replacement parts happens. Best advise, never go to a dealer. They have no interest in servicing your old car. Oh, yeah, I had to replace the resonator as well, but if did even think of going to a dealer. A local mechanic basically took a Thrush muffler and welded a box to receive the catalytic convertor outlet. Works great. Cost a fraction of what a dealer would charge for a system. Eventually I will get the check engine light off. Almost there. One of the rear struts needs a replacement as well, I hear a clunk in the back going over bumps.
Last edited by dkopriva; 04-21-2020 at 06:05 AM.
#2
Well, I bought a 2010 LR2 with the check engine light on and not running so good, with 139,000kms. Now with 153,000 km's it is running better other new O2 sensors, new catalytic convertors, the set after the initial setup coming from the exhaust manifold. Fact is regardless of the fact that it has low KMS it is still 10 years old and needs attention. The check engine light is still on and it flashes when cold. I suspect an injector rather than a spark problem since the spark plugs were replaced with proper gapping It could be the intake valves being gummed up but I doubt it because I had the intake manifold off because I had to replace the thermostat and a little coolant house that's connected to it since it burst and the valves seemed to be clean ( not that I paid a huge amount of attention to it is at the time). one of the front springs broke the other day and replaced both front springs. When an owner lives in a rust prone area of the country things like that will happen. I bought the car fairly cheap and to date have put out about $1,500 CDN. Not bad but it annoys my wife. BUt you have to look at it this sway. A 2010 Toyota 4 runner will set me back about $18,000 CDN with over 200,000 kms . And Toyota's need repairs as well, maybe not a often but when any vehicle gets to a certain age and mileage replacement parts happens. Best advise, never go to a dealer. They have no interest in servicing your old car. Oh, yeah, I had to replace the resonator as well, but if did even think of going to a dealer. A local mechanic basically took a Thrush muffler and welded a box to receive the catalytic convertor outlet. Works great. Cost a fraction of what a dealer would charge for a system. Eventually I will get the check engine light off. Almost there. One of the rear struts needs a replacement as well, I hear a clunk in the back going over bumps.
#3
Lessons learned
I only have an old OBDII scanner. But I heard that if I unplug the battery for about 15 seconds the check engine light may go out. I will have to scan it again one morning. I think one for the injectors is running rich and spraying to much air in the cylinder when the engine is cold. LEt me know what you think.
#4
#5
I checked the codes. PO302 , P0304, P0305, P0306, P0300,P0012, P098, PO175, P053B- multiple misfire codes. I have the reduced engine performance warning coming on as well, then is goes away and the flash check engine light stops flashing but remind on. I have a rich fuel code on as well as the can sensor code which I;m sure is related. When the car LR2 warms up it usually goes away but the check engine light stays on. Has lots of power when warmed up.
#6
As I said, I would reset all the error codes, run the engine for a while and then see what codes pop up again. If the P0098 persists, I would start there and troubleshoot the intake air temperature sensor.
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0098
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0098
#7
This is interesting. My code reader does not allow me to reset anything. Probably can only reset on the machine itself. It's and old one. But the diagnosis your giving makes a lot of sense. But there is one problem that the description you sent does not reference and that is misfires I am getting. Will this eliminate the misfires. I will locate the sensor and go through the steps or I will let my mechanic tackle it.
Last edited by dkopriva; 04-22-2020 at 05:39 AM.
#8
This is interesting. My code reader does not allow me to reset anything. Probably can only reset on the machine itself. It's and old one. But the diagnosis your giving makes a lot of sense. But there is one problem that the description you sent does not reference and that is misfires I am getting. Will this eliminate the misfires. I will locate the sensor and go through the steps or I will let my mechanic tackle it.
If the IAT sensor is bad it may be causing problems that lead to misfiring. One step at a time.
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dkopriva (04-22-2020)
#9
You need to spend a few bucks on a modern reader. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If the IAT sensor is bad it may be causing problems that lead to misfiring. One step at a time.
If the IAT sensor is bad it may be causing problems that lead to misfiring. One step at a time.
#10
That's a nice scanner! The AMZN description says they added bi-directional capability to bleed the ABS. Have you tried actuating the ABS solenoids on your LR2? Can you purchase/add enhanced diagnostics for other vehicle models to this scanner, or is it limited to the LR2?