Hi Guy(s) - I did a bit of research - engine timing chain premature failures (Ford eco boost) have been associated with lack of regular oil change regime (dirty oil). Premature rear diff failures likewise - we know the specific bearing that fails in the rear diff and clean oil will definitely promote longevity. (Incidentally I have an aged Porsche Boxster, this car is synonymous with a IMS bearing failure, in general the failure elimination/remediation is based on lubricating the IMS bearing with fresh oil - the original bearing installed has a debris barrier (that actually prevents oil flow thru/around the bearing) as bearing was 'sealed for life' - sometimes 'life' was about 30k miles ) When the bearing fails it usually takes the engine with it due to the shrapnel that is liberated from the failed bearing - shocking design/manufacture failure.

Overall changing all the fluids makes sense but the evidence is a bit less than 100% solid. I come from the UK where oil gets changed in cars annually or every 20k miles. Generally the engines are kaput after a relatively small mileage - 4 cylinder 100k miles. I spoke with a UK mechanic who religiously changed his oil every 3k miles and was able to get 300k miles out of a 4 cylinder engine (taxi driver). He was a super practical guy & his word/experience was good for me. Fingers crossed - teenage daughter just headed for school in the LR2, no doubt hitting 80mph on the way......

Thx for the feedback - sincerely appreciated
Jim

 

Reminds me, I did some consulting at Aramco. The people I met changed their oil every weekend by driving into the desert….
;-) Maybe we’re getting used oil, lol.

The routine I follow is 5K kms for oil. 25K kms for the peripherals, including power steering, brake fluid, coolant, diffs, PTU, etc.
And I’m on the 2nd engine!

 

Guy - I applaud your scrupulous regime (better than mine). I expect your engine (6 cyl) is going to last longer than mine (4 cyl turbo). What mileage & what was the failure mechanism for your engine #1....? (even more disappointing when you consider your fluids regime...)

Definitely staying away from Arabian sand with the LR2......

Thx
J

 

Baby camel tacos are pretty tasty... just sayin'...

 

2013 model. its the ecoboost 4 cylinder. I got the dreaded camshaft out of position one frosty morning (-40, not including windchill) and didn’t use the block heater. Stupid.

Never doing that again.

Actually, gazelle on the bbq (South Africa) is better! ;-)

 

My International 2008 CE-300 school bus has an electric plug, male, on the front bumper. Plug it in and wait an hour.

Does the aux heater also provide cabin heat while it warms up the oil pan? I was reminded of this option when I plugged in my car into SDD to trouble shoot the A/C and reset all the old trouble codes.

 

Actually, the factory inline heater, warms the engine coolant. So the effect is a warm cabin very quickly.
When it’s connected, the coolant reservoir gets as hot as when the engine is at normal operating temperature.

 

Ah, so it heats the coolant instead of the oil? Hmm. I thought the problem would be that the oil was too cold and thick, not the coolant. Would be nice to have that on the gasoline models.

 

my classic thinking as well. I was educated that the engine needs to be warmed. Synthetic 0W or 5W flows appropriately. It is properly warmed by flowing through the warmed engine.
A heater in the oil sump does not efficiently warm the entire engine, just the oil.

 

Ok, but I don't see anything in the service manual about the FFBH pumping the warmed coolant through the engine. Did I miss something?