LR2 Alternator HELP
#1
LR2 Alternator HELP
I'mtrying to find out any info on changing the alternator out on my daughter's2011 LR2. She carried it to the dealer and they told her it would be 1625.00 toreplace. I'm pretty good under the hood of a car but what little info I havefound on the net the job sounds like a big one involving special tools andintake removal. Any advice will be appreciated.
#3
If you search on eBay for "land rover lr2 repair manual" you will see a manual for about $15 USD that you can download electronically right after your purchase. I don't know if it contains instructions for replacing the alternator, but these manuals usually provide directions and illustrations for these types of repairs. Please let us know how it turns out.
#4
I found instructions on Free Online Workshop Repair Manuals the hard part is removal of the intake manifold. I have it all removed currently and plan on putting everything back together this weekend. I will let everyone know if it runs afterwards.
#6
I found instructions on Free Online Workshop Repair Manuals the hard part is removal of the intake manifold. I have it all removed currently and plan on putting everything back together this weekend. I will let everyone know if it runs afterwards.
#7
This is not a fun job, the overall design of the intake system makes it a bit of a pain to remove the manifold.
There are two separate alternator issues that this engine suffers from. The first, which I haven't seen in a while, was due to the coolant vent hose leaking, and dripping coolant directly into the alternator, causing it to fail.
The second is becoming more common. There is a one-way clutch built into the alternator drive flange. This is there so that when the engine is stopped, the alternator can spin down without coming to an abrupt stop. When this clutch fails, it will do one of two things, go completely open and not allow the alternator to spin, or more often go locked, and cause the rotating mass of the alternator to try to continue to turn the flange drive, and cause the bolt that secures the drive flange to the READ to loosen, causing the entire drive flange and rubber coupling to not spin.
When replacing, always install a new one-way clutch, and if the drive flange bolt that turns the rubber coupler is loose, replace it and apply thread locker to it.
There are two separate alternator issues that this engine suffers from. The first, which I haven't seen in a while, was due to the coolant vent hose leaking, and dripping coolant directly into the alternator, causing it to fail.
The second is becoming more common. There is a one-way clutch built into the alternator drive flange. This is there so that when the engine is stopped, the alternator can spin down without coming to an abrupt stop. When this clutch fails, it will do one of two things, go completely open and not allow the alternator to spin, or more often go locked, and cause the rotating mass of the alternator to try to continue to turn the flange drive, and cause the bolt that secures the drive flange to the READ to loosen, causing the entire drive flange and rubber coupling to not spin.
When replacing, always install a new one-way clutch, and if the drive flange bolt that turns the rubber coupler is loose, replace it and apply thread locker to it.
The following 2 users liked this post by roverguy7:
crackofnoon (11-21-2018),
Puddin (03-08-2015)
#9
Completion
Got the intake manifold gaskets in today and got everything reassembled. If your doing this job make sure once your compete add coolant. I didn't and got a low coolant fault but all is well now. Summary this is not the easiest of jobs but cost less than 300.00 and dealer wanted 1625.00.
The following users liked this post:
TXFireblade (03-10-2015)