Seems pretty straightforward to me...

 

Someone isn't giving me the correct information

BOSCH the maker of the Alternator and the owner of the specifications says 180 Amps

LAND ROVER Service manual calls out 150 Amps


I need some independent data



I went to the VIN DECODER and here is what I found for my 2008

.................
Headlamps - A.F.S. Headlamps [064DS];
Special Fuel Tank - Onboard Vapour Recovery [046AE];
Alternators - Current (Amps) - 150Amp Alternator [058AL];
Door Locking - Operation - Single Locking [076EJ];
................


150 AMPS for the win


I am surprised that the Germans got it wrong and the Brits got it right.

We are still orbiting the Sun and not the other way around................correct????


For reference if you want a rebuilt 150 Amp BOSCH (Remanufactured by BOSCH) then search for a 2008 VOLVO S80 3.2 and you will find BOSCH AL0848X

That's what I would get if I were in need of a replacement.

I am nearly at 150,000 miles on my original but I did replace the overdrive pulley at about 100,000 miles

Take care

​​​​​​​Paul

 

Thank you so much for finding that out, it's exactly what I needed to hear.
​​​​​​​ On a different note, I don't know if you have been reading the post to prior to the alternator but I also have a p0087 that keeps popping up. I've done a hard reset it cleared it for the moment but it come back. It's only a problem when cranking the Rover. Once it's running has no problem whatsoever. I don't think it makes a difference cold or hot. Low pressure fuel rail. I've seen other discussions but they were three parts that were discussed which were evap purge valve, fuel pressure sensor and fuel rail pressure sending unit. What would be your take given the circumstances given above?

 

I apologize for my last post, please disregard as you have already answered my question in a previous post

 

Interesting info from Paul.....I was under the false impression that if you had the heated windshield you should use the 180 amp Bosch. Good info, tks.

 

When we were discussing p0087 you suggested replacing the fuel rail pressure sending unit but the link that you put in the post for reference is for the replacement of fuel rail pressure sensor not sending unit. Can that sensor be bought at regular auto parts store? And also, do you know if they carry the tool I need when I replace the alternator or is that specific to dealership?
You are a blessing with all the knowledge you give freely. You are much appreciated!
Thank you

 

A sensor = A sending unit.

 

The Alternator Pulley Tool is only needed if you are replacing the pulley. If you are getting a rebuilt Alternator it will come with the pulley installed and you won't need to remove and replace it.

However the roll pins should be transferred from the old Alternator then pushed flush into the rebuilt Alternator and then when everything is aligned pushed into the engine block. If you don't do it this way then is is extremely hard to et the Alternator to line up (ask me how I know?)

Go to 8:50 in the Video to see what needs to be done.

You will need something to push the dowel pins into the block.



Good luck

Paul

 

That would make sense.

In fact the 180 Amp version in my S80 is better at maintaining the Voltage with higher electrical loads at idle.

Sometimes LAND ROVER doesn't make logical decisions.

Like my single fan that I upgraded to a dual fan (the service manual does say the the dual fan is for hot climates)

I guess the 110F in Cali isn't hot enough.


Take care

Paul

 

Temps in Saudi Arabia in the desert regularly peak at 130F. You gotta go camping in Furnace Creek to see your thermometer freak out like that.