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I am a Land Rover newbie, having my LR2 for just over a year.
My LR2 is throwing the p0087 code for “fuel rail/system pressure too low” twice now. In the past two months I have replaced every coolant hose, the radiator, and water pump and now...this issue has popped up. Normal driving my LR2 seems to do just fine, no jerks, sounds or smells. When I drive in warmer Colorado weather high 80s and 90s for long periods of time (3-4 hours with stops along the way) this seems to set this code off. I was trying to accelerate on the highway and there were small chugs of sorts but it did not do this continually. I let it cool for several hours and it seemed to do fine. Any thoughts on where to start?
Hi - did you ever get this fixed? I had the same issue, then changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator Sensor (as advised by many) and it fixed the issue for a while. After a long hot drive towing a trailer, the issue is back (with a new Fuel Pressure Sensor) I am thinking the Fuel Pump Control Module or the Fuel Pump itself now.
Hi - I originally bought a cheapy but it leaked fuel. Unreal - the ring circum. was too small so I ended up getting the Land Rover part from the dealer LR015294 and fixed all the issues / codes (around xmas time) the codes back then were all high pressure related P0088 P0175 P0172 P0193 (most common was the P0175 / P0172) I suspected the O2 sensors and fuel pump then.
The issue yesterday after hauling my ATV/trailer a couple of hours on a record breaking warm April day in Ontario Canada, (nearly 90°) and just got off the freeway near home and sat at a light for a while and when green it behaved like it does when you leave the key FOB in and restart (many have this issue). Pulled over, pulled the FOB out and back in and was fine but the engine light popped on and threw P0087
I have never had this happen after a long drive, usually only after starting and not letting the FOB out / in / slowly etc.
Only caveat was I drove through a very deep water/puddle but that was over an hour before the issue. New code was/is P0087 - low fuel pressure now
My next two fixes are going to be: (after an ECM reset via battery cable)
- Fuel Pump Driver Module LR006042 on its way
- Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor (leaning towards this after the puddle, but I will try FPDM first - easiest)
If those don't do it, I have to wonder about the Fuel Pump / Assembly. It could also be a short elsewhere. I even have the original Starter Motor on my 2010 (186,000km / 115,00 mi) seems alright but every once in a while it hesitates while turning/cranking.
it behaved like it does when you leave the key FOB in and restart (many have this issue).
This has nothing to do with the FOB, that is a myth. It has to do with the evap system purge valve failing and the fuel tank pressure not being relieved into the throttle body mechanism. The fact that this happened to you on a very warm day points to that as well. The fix for that is to change the purge valve. It costs $30 or so. One possible way to see if this is the problem is to open the fuel cap and let the pressure in the tank equalize and see if it helps.
We can't talk about the rough running due the hot soaking with the key fob docked on this forum.
Ignore the fact that the 3.2 was developed by Volvo and Volvo recalled their 3.2 for the Hot Soak problem. Land Rover didn't do the recall and I never Hot Soak mine with the key docked.
Having said that my LR2 3.2 has also run very rough and I did replace the purge valve for the evap recovery. That is a good place to start.
Also the Thermostat is a know failure point (have you changed yours). The radiator fan also.
Anything that increases the fuel rail temperature could cause rough running. This is the negative aspect of a return less fuel system.
I do know that my LR2 fuel pressure will increase after I shut down the engine due to the heat of the exhaust warming the fuel lines. The codes could be an indication that the rail pressure is higher than anticipated. A check valve in the system prevents the fuel from returning to the tank.
We can't talk about the rough running due the hot soaking with the key fob docked on this forum.
That's because every discussion I've seen that implied the FOB had anything to do with it turned out to be something else, in both Volvo and LR installs. Volvo never recalled anything to do with the FOB. It's easy to verify that by looking at all the Volvo S60 recalls, for example.
Ok thanks for that, much appreciated I will try the test next time it gets into that state. One more thing to note, the fuel tank was as low as I have had it in a while (right on E) and I hadn't opened the cap since it was full to the brim and much colder out. Just something that may be note-worthy.
That FOB issue only ever seemed to happened when the FOB was not taken out then replaced for restart. Way back I told people it was a great security feature. hehehe.
But this makes more sense - almost along the same lines as the gas cap not being properly seated/reseated and rough idle.
Looks like the part number for the Evap Purge Valve is LR003489 for the 2010 LR2 HSE - I will get it asap and shouldn't be too hard to get to - down in front. I will hold off on the crankshaft position sensor.