Okay, thanks for clarifying.

One last question for everyone. It seems like most people here have gone with the Hidden Hitch, and a couple for Draw-Tite. But I haven't heard of anyone going with the Curt Hitch. It looks pretty much the same and is cheaper. Is there any reason you all chose the other two over this one?

 

I believe the same manufacture makes the hitch for all of the major companies. I paid the extra $20-30 for my Hidden Hitch just because others already had it installed and i did not want to risk problems to save the $20-$30. Curt should be fine though.

 

Just an update on my Hidden Hitch that I installed about 4 years ago. I'm surprised at how rusty it is.

 

Man has it been 5 years already? Where does the time go?
My hitch is pretty rusty as well where the tube is welded to the frame plate and around the receiver. Not quite as bad as yours.
But I'm in a garage at work and at home so it's only in the weather when I'm out driving. Overall no problems with the hitch it has pulled anything I've needed. And I haul a lot of firewood with my trailer.

If anyone is close to being out of warranty take a good look/listen at your rear differential mine went at 60k and it seems a lot are going around the same mileage. They really should recall it because my new rear is a completely new design. I was pissed when the rear went before it's first fluid change and they didn't give me a price break on the replacement.
I have 91K on the 2008 LR2 Now.

 

What does it sound like when it goes out? I have 70k on my 2009. But I don't tow very much.

 

Its a hum or whining noise I didn't notice for a while it just sounded like road noise to me. But I was turning up the radio louder and louder. It's not related to towing. I thinks the angle of the axle shafts and undersized bearings. The same as the recall on the first freelander. Eventually I heard a crunching from the rear at very low speeds like pulling out of the garage.
2-5k seems to be the price the dealers are charging when searching the forums.
After having the rear replaced I realized that the rear was completely silent. I had just gotten used to the noise.

 

Hi,
I just recently bought a Yakima trailer hitch bike rack and it is causing the reverse sensors to give me a constant BEEEEEEEP when backing up. Does anyone know if there is a way to use the electronics to stop this. There is no plugin on the bike rack for electronics. So is there a plug or something you could put in the electronics to make it think something is plugged in to stop that noise? OR does anyone have another work around for a situation like this?

 

A trailer light tester might be enough to be picked up as having a trailer connected. Trailer 4 Way Flat Connector Plug Harness Brake LED Test Light Keychain Tester | eBay

 

Jay you're out of space for private messages so I'll put my response here.


They will install the module if you need it installed. Mine I already had installed so they just programmed it for if I remember correctly $50 or so they just connect to the cars odbII port and activate the module if you have it installed already no need to leave the module exposed they don't need to touch the unit if you already have it installed in the LR2.

 

Thanks - i didn't realize the limited space on the private message portion.

Cheers.