OEM Alternator Required?
2008 3.2i
Alternator failed, too busy to deal with, took it to my shop.
They tried a Bosch and I think a Denso, apparently they worked briefly then shut off.
Shop contacted JLR, they said an OEM alternator was required, as the car would not recognize an after-market unit.
This make any sense? I recall other folks here using after-market units?
My wife did keep driving it until low voltage confused the computers, which required a reset of the crash module.
Alternator failed, too busy to deal with, took it to my shop.
They tried a Bosch and I think a Denso, apparently they worked briefly then shut off.
Shop contacted JLR, they said an OEM alternator was required, as the car would not recognize an after-market unit.
This make any sense? I recall other folks here using after-market units?
My wife did keep driving it until low voltage confused the computers, which required a reset of the crash module.
Last edited by merlinj79; Dec 12, 2023 at 04:36 PM.
OEM is a Bosch 180 amp if you have a heated windscreen. Lots of times the problem is a seized alternator pulley and bolt. p_gill did a really good write up at freel2.com, check it out. If you buy from LR, you will have to buy the alternator and pulley seperate.
I replaced mine with the Bosch 180amp from Rockauto (alternator and pulley came together). If it's just the pulley, LR might be the way to go.
I replaced mine with the Bosch 180amp from Rockauto (alternator and pulley came together). If it's just the pulley, LR might be the way to go.
Last edited by ThorInc; Dec 12, 2023 at 08:37 PM.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic25554.html
If the bolt for the drive pulley had backed out then it won't charge (check to see if it is spinning at idle)
Another possibility is the blue wire that controls the alternator, if it breaks then the alternator won't charge.
Good luck
Paul
If the bolt for the drive pulley had backed out then it won't charge (check to see if it is spinning at idle)
Another possibility is the blue wire that controls the alternator, if it breaks then the alternator won't charge.
Good luck
Paul
This link has the pictures
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/freelande...-i6-owner.html
Good luck
Paul
PS If the Blue Wire is broken or if the drive pulley bolt is loose then the Alternator isn't going to generate a Voltage so replacing the Alternator will have no effect on the Voltage output.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/freelande...-i6-owner.html
Good luck
Paul
PS If the Blue Wire is broken or if the drive pulley bolt is loose then the Alternator isn't going to generate a Voltage so replacing the Alternator will have no effect on the Voltage output.
Merlin,
Thanks for reminding me to rebuild my alternator
I got it done yesterday
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39641.html
Did you determine why your LR2 is not charging?
Have a Merry Christmas
Paul
Thanks for reminding me to rebuild my alternator
I got it done yesterday
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39641.html
Did you determine why your LR2 is not charging?
Have a Merry Christmas
Paul
It's still at the shop, they got the OEM alternator delivered last week but then realized they needed to order the tool to remove the drive. I imagine they'll get back to work today.
This is my neighborhood shop, used them for other cars but first time for the LR2. Thought I'd try them since I can walk there, the indie LR guy I've used in the past is further away and always takes a good while with the car. Maybe I should have just taken it to him. The local shop does a lot of trade, lot of makes and models, I assumed they would have seen Volvos before if not LR's.
This is my neighborhood shop, used them for other cars but first time for the LR2. Thought I'd try them since I can walk there, the indie LR guy I've used in the past is further away and always takes a good while with the car. Maybe I should have just taken it to him. The local shop does a lot of trade, lot of makes and models, I assumed they would have seen Volvos before if not LR's.
I could see the shaft rotating behind the engine side coupling and the alternator is not frozen or stiff. I thought it was the rubber coupling but this thread showed otherwise.
I dread removing the intake manifold again but I will probably take the opportunity to replace the cooling fan. I have never heard or seen it run even with the AC on. Never overheated so it needs investigation.


