I beg to differ. AMSOIL does not disclose the composition of their base stock for regular or synthetic oil. Pennzoil clearly states that it is 100% synthetic made from natural gas. That is why I use Pennzoil and not AMSOIL. I bet it's because it would be very bad PR for them to disclose they make their synthetic product from a crude oil distillate base stock. If you want a full synthetic that meets European SAPS standards, Pennzoil makes that as well.

 

I purchase Amsoil through their website preferred member program. Being using their gas and gear oils for approx 2 decades first in a V6 marine outboard/lower unit. Was so impressed with their marine products, I now use Amsoil in everything with an engine/tranny. I used their extended drain filters as well but they don't make one for my LR2/FL2 model. As I mentioned before, I would have zero issues giving the Fram 20 micron a go. I really don't think you will have any issues if you change your oil regularly & use quality oil. IMpersonalO, outside temp changes, length of drive & driving style will affect oil darkening frequency regardless of the oil/filter combo but that's my layman's view.

 

One known risk in changing oil filters from the OEM recommendation is the pressure rating on the bypass valve may be significantly different. If it's a lot higher, the oil may not flow (bypass) on startup when the engine is cold.

But this concern is for canister style filters where the bypass valve is built into the housing of the screw-on filter. For the cartridge style filter on our LR2's, the bypass valve is probably in the engine and is fixed to spec.

 

It's not easy to purchase due to their MLM model with fewer distributors versus the convenience of local auto parts stores. If I were to buy some, I would register as an online member as you have.

They have tremendous brand loyalty from customers who keep them in business despite the obstacles in buying locally. As flybd5 noted, they are not transparent about their inputs which would make anyone suspicious. But in all the oil comparison tests I've seen, they rank near the top if not #1.

 

I'd only worry about that if it was bad enough to make the oil light stay on significantly longer than normal. Easy to test, swap out an OEM for the after market on a cold winter day and see how long it takes the oil light to come on. Start briefly once after swapping to fill the filter, let the motor sit for a while and try again with a stopwatch.

But the other concern is if it bypasses at too low a pressure, sending unfiltered oil to the motor under some conditions.

Yes. The only considerations for us are flow, durability, and micron rating. Any reputable filter should be good for the first two, read the specs for the last.

 

Just did my first oil change with a magnetic plug (153K, 5K OCI). Almost nothing on the magnet, no fur, shavings, etc. Just a very thin film of what looked to be oil mixed with very fine metal powder. Unlike the rear diff which tends to have some fur, not surprisingly since I assume it's gradually eating itself on the normal schedule

Mostly run K&N oil filters (for good flow at high rpms while towing).



I tried several oil mag oil plugs over the years, but all had too wide of a flange, found this one on ebay last summer, it fits fine...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273351500985

 

I would recommend starting to use Liqui-Moly MoS2.

 

You talked me into it, I left out 500ml of oil, LM is on the way via amazon.

 

That not how MoS2 works. I discussed this at length with the regional manager. You add the FULL oil capacity of the engine and then add the MoS2, because it is an additive and not a substitute. For the LR2 it's eight full liters of oil and 400ml of MoS2 (50 ml per liter of oil). The MoS2 will not remain in suspension in the oil, most of it attaches to the internal metal surfaces of the engine.

 

I haven’t made the jump to MoS2 yet… but coming from an aircraft mechanic…
So I’ve been thinking about it.

I do change my oil more frequently then described in the Service Manual at about 5000 kms. But have been sticking to the oem filter and the manufacturer’s recommendation for synthetic. Ditto for the Jag.

And I do use magnetic plugs. Of course the ‘fur’ in the diff has lot to do with the fact there isn’t a filter there. Thus emphasizing the need for suitable filters. Don’t get me going on my opinions about the Haldex… clearly not manufactured with longevity in mind.

And finally, returning to the title: yes k&n and amsoil are the greatest…. at least according to their own marketing material. And their own “independent” sponsored tests.

Cheers!