You can "calibrate" your wrist... use the torque wrench on a larger bolt (or a bolt in a vise) to get a feel for the torque you need, then just torque it by feel.

 

You have GOT to be kidding me.

 

In my case, the mechanic did it as part of installing a new radiator to replace one that was leaking. 7 ft lb is nothing, the housing will be fine. You're not torquing against the plastic housing, that's what the metal bushings are for. If you don't use a torque wrench you run the risk of not putting enough torque on the bolts and developing a leak around the edges, or if you go too hard you may indeed break something. If you can get a socket and ratchet in there to remove the bolts you can also use a torque wrench (which is essentially an adjustable ratchet wrench).

 

No, I'm not kidding and I'm talking about small bolts for brackets, plastic covers, things like which are often hard to get a torque wrench on with the engine in the car... you just need to get in the ballpark for stuff like that. Experienced gearheads do that all the time, we can feel the difference between 30 in/lbs and 30 ft/lbs. Most of us don't get out a 1/4" torque wrnech for every little screw, I don't think even own one of those. We know how much to torque a small bolt in steel, aluminum, and plastic (less torque if you use anti-seize which was not specified in the manual).

The "calibrated wrist" suggestion was for people who might not have that feel and need to avoid torquing a plastic inset nut to 30ft/lb.

Structural bolts of course need to be torqued with a wrench, in the right order, and that includes valve covers if you don't want leaks.

 

"Calibrated wrists" never work for bolts that have torque specifications. At best that is asking for trouble, at worst that is looking for an accident. That's the difference between an "experienced gearhead" amateur and a trained mechanic. Basic torque wrenches are $20 at Harbor Freight, less than the cost of one full tank of premium gas these days. There's no excuse not to have one if you are going to do your own work on a car.

 

This is what I'm talking about, not going to cause an accident.


I use bar torque wrenches because I have no easy way of keeping click wrenches calibrated. Bar wrenches can be hard or impossible to read in tight spaces.

But your point is valid too, no harm at all in using book values and a torque wrench for everything, and that might save a stripped thread or two. Absolutely mandatory for engine/tranny mechanicals, blocks, cases, suspension, brakes.

 

Even torque wrenches with expired calibrations are better than "calibrated wrists". Always. And you don't need to go to a shop to calibrate your torque wrench anyway.

https://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-a-Torque-Wrench

 

The XC90 has quite a bit more access space than the LR2. The LR2 manual says to remove the Intake Manifold to reach the thermostat. But as you suggest, that may not be necessary.

If I were to try this, I think I would remove the upper strut to provide a little more elbow room. It comes off/on easily as I discovered when I replaced it earlier this year. And move the windshield wiper fluid filler neck out of the way, as well.

I would also replace the upper hose at the same time (it's probably due anyway if you're replacing the thermostat). This way, I don't have to remove the old hose from the old thermostat while it's still on the engine, and I can attach the new hose to the new thermostat before reaching in to bolt on the new thermostat.

 

Great ideas. I did not know the upper strut came off easily, it certainly looks like a substantial job.
I was thinking about removing the fuel rail bleeder valve, but I don't think that would give me much more space.
Yeah, I had to move the windshield wiper tank when I changed the oil a while back. I may need to disconnect it completely and remove it for this job.
My thermostat housing comes today or tomorrow, so the fun begins....

 

See this thread by flybd5 for instructions on removing the upper strut (aka, torque mount). If you have a skinny arm, you may be able to reach in without removing it, so of course try that first.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...-lately-99534/

I don't think removing the fuel rail bleeder valve will gain you any space (not sure if we're even referring to the same thing).

If you replace the hose at the same time, you don't need too much space since you're only dealing with the bolts on the thermostat. A small articulated ratchet wrench may do the job.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!