Trouble Code P0087
#11
Yes I did... Everything seemed normal. Those numbers appear to be correct? Thinking back on when it occured ... When I got in and inserted the FOB and hit the start button the I must have double tapped the fob and it ejected at the same time I hit the start button. I am thinking that might have caused my issue? Incomplete computer booting before I hit the start button. Possible?
Last edited by UP49802; 07-08-2021 at 10:04 AM.
#12
Yes I did... Everything seemed normal. Those numbers appear to be correct? Thinking back on when it occured ... When I got in and inserted the FOB and hit the start button the I must have double tapped the fob and it ejected at the same time I hit the start button. I am thinking that might have caused my issue? Incomplete computer booting before I hit the start button. Possible?
Anything's possible with this car.
But it still sounds a lot more like the fuel pressure sensor.
1) Your symptoms match that.
2) They seem to fail gradually and intermittently, so the symptoms come and go.
3) It will fail eventually anyway after 100K, so it won't hurt to replace it. Easy and fairly cheap.
If the symptoms return, that's what I'd do. Also what I'd do before going on any road trips.
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UP49802 (07-08-2021)
#15
I used a Bosch sensor for my 2010 S80 3.2 (same engine as your LR2)
I did get a different code than you but it cleared after replacing the sensor
Note: the fuel system is return-less and it relies on the sensor to determine how much to run the pump to maintain the pressure.
If the sensor response is slow or not accurate then the ECU will compensate by controlling the injector timing (look up Fuel Trim for more information)
Its been a month since I replaced the sensor and my 3.2 runs much better with the new sensor.
Note: the biggest change is when you step hard on the gas pedal, for steady state cruising or climbing a hill the change isn't noticeable.
I recommend changing this sensor every 10 years.
The sensor is already on the list
Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat – replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
B) Fuel pressure sending unit
The full list is here
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html
This link is for my S80 it has picture of the sensor and it shows that I switch from a T25 Torx bolt to a 8 mm Hex bolt
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...7687&start=110
Take Care
Paul
I did get a different code than you but it cleared after replacing the sensor
Note: the fuel system is return-less and it relies on the sensor to determine how much to run the pump to maintain the pressure.
If the sensor response is slow or not accurate then the ECU will compensate by controlling the injector timing (look up Fuel Trim for more information)
Its been a month since I replaced the sensor and my 3.2 runs much better with the new sensor.
Note: the biggest change is when you step hard on the gas pedal, for steady state cruising or climbing a hill the change isn't noticeable.
I recommend changing this sensor every 10 years.
The sensor is already on the list
Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat – replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
B) Fuel pressure sending unit
The full list is here
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html
This link is for my S80 it has picture of the sensor and it shows that I switch from a T25 Torx bolt to a 8 mm Hex bolt
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...7687&start=110
Take Care
Paul
#16
Hello Paul,
Yes I decided to replace it and have a Bosch/OEM sensor on the way. After reading about failure timeframe and symptoms I decided to take action as it is much cheaper than getting stranded plus tow bill! Ill When the sensor arrives tomorrow I will take a ride with the scanner and record a few scenarios. I think it could be a interesting piece of information to put out there for a 100k mile comparision.
1. Cold start up and idle psi
2. Cold accelertion psi 0 to 35mph psi
3. Operating temp idle psi
4. Operating temp acceleration 0 to 35mph
5. Operating temp 55mph cruise psi
6. Fuel psi after shut down at operating temp
Yes I decided to replace it and have a Bosch/OEM sensor on the way. After reading about failure timeframe and symptoms I decided to take action as it is much cheaper than getting stranded plus tow bill! Ill When the sensor arrives tomorrow I will take a ride with the scanner and record a few scenarios. I think it could be a interesting piece of information to put out there for a 100k mile comparision.
1. Cold start up and idle psi
2. Cold accelertion psi 0 to 35mph psi
3. Operating temp idle psi
4. Operating temp acceleration 0 to 35mph
5. Operating temp 55mph cruise psi
6. Fuel psi after shut down at operating temp
#18
Ok... So after installing the new sensor there was some slight differences.
Cold start 60psi
2 mins (or so) 55psi
BUT... during mild acceleration the pressure remained at a VERY stable at 55psi
Hard acceleration there was a slight/instant spike to 58 psi but dropped AND held stable at 55psi.
Hot shut down the pressure dropped to 37 BUT actually increased to 38psi - 39psi - 40psi every 90 seconds or so (I would assume from heat soak}? That I didnt notice with the original sensor. I also would assume that rules out the pressure regulator being faulty?
Now... It did seeem to drive smoother especially mild acceleration thru 2nd gear up thru 3rd and 4th. Almost more linear feeling. According to the OEM manual the fuel rail pressure is to be manitained at a stable 55psi. Except for the cold start/fuel temp 60psi situation from what I can find... VERY HAPPY with results!
Cold start 60psi
2 mins (or so) 55psi
BUT... during mild acceleration the pressure remained at a VERY stable at 55psi
Hard acceleration there was a slight/instant spike to 58 psi but dropped AND held stable at 55psi.
Hot shut down the pressure dropped to 37 BUT actually increased to 38psi - 39psi - 40psi every 90 seconds or so (I would assume from heat soak}? That I didnt notice with the original sensor. I also would assume that rules out the pressure regulator being faulty?
Now... It did seeem to drive smoother especially mild acceleration thru 2nd gear up thru 3rd and 4th. Almost more linear feeling. According to the OEM manual the fuel rail pressure is to be manitained at a stable 55psi. Except for the cold start/fuel temp 60psi situation from what I can find... VERY HAPPY with results!
#19
#20