Hello, I've recently purchased a used 2008 Land Rover lr3 SE model and it cranks but no start I believe I'm at the point where it could be the immobilizer and was wondering aside from going to the dealership and paying a bunch of money for them to tell me what the code is how do I retrain the key for the immobilizer to turn it off? I have replaced the crank sensor also both cam sensors and the only codes I'm getting at this point are my both downstream O2 sensors bank one and Bank two. Thank you any feedback is much appreciated

 

If it cranks is not the immobilizer. I attached the workshop manual on that part so you can see how it works. If its cranking, a lot, then you should smell fuel out the exhaust. If not I would look at the fuel pump fuse and relay. The relay can be swapped with another in the relay box, they are mostly the same one. Also make sure the dash is intact. For example if the HVAC controls are not plugged in the vehicle will not start, but I think it may still crank (been a while). But basically things need to be plugged in and while many will not cause an issue, some items will cause a no-start. You could also try disconnecting the engine capacitor. Its on the left side of the engine as you stand in front. I think four wires that go to a smaller black box mounted on the metal support for the beauty cover. if it fails, it can cause a no-start but if I recall its not really needed to run the engine.

 

you bought it in none running condition?

 

Yes but only paid $800, the guy I bought it from got it from a title loan place, which tells me it had to be running in order for whomever did the loan.

 

Ok so given it cranks and has done so since I've had the vehicle, and the fact it cranks means the immobilizer isn't the issue, but the info about the operations pertaining to the immobilizer says when the anti theft /immobilizer is mobilized the led llight on the cluster will blink a couple times and remain off. BUT when I press the unlock doors /disarm alarm my led always blinks always has so could it be something in the wiring or in the ecm?

 

Not sure where you read that.

ALARM INDICATOR
The alarm indicator is located in the instrument cluster, below the tachometer. The alarm indicator provides information about the status of the alarm and immobilization system. Operation of the alarm indicator is controlled by the CJB using a hardwired connection with the instrument cluster.
For immobilization system status, when the alarm system is disarmed and the vehicle is immobilized (key out of ignition switch), the alarm indicator flashes once every 2 seconds. When the alarm system is disarmed and the vehicle is mobilized, the alarm indicator performs a 1 second confirmation flash (when the ECM confirms to the CJB that it is in the mobilized state) and then remains off.

Mobilized means that the key is in and the vehicle is running. So when the key is out/truck off the red LED blinks every two seconds locked or not as the alarm is not going off and the truck is no running. When you start the truck, the LED will go red for a second then go off when running. If the red LED stays on when starting I believe that means the alarm system has immobilized the truck, but then it would not crank.

 

Can you walk through what diagnostics you have done to this point? And you have the 4.4L V8? There are 3 categories of things to check off:
1. air
2. fuel
3. spark

I would methodically go through the list. For air, are you getting MAF sensor values via the GAP IID tool? For fuel, check fuel pressure readings via scan first. For spark, there are inexpensive test tools that will let you what is up.

When I rebuilt my Jaguar Super V8 (same engine except not bored out, and supercharged), I had a no-spark situation that had been caused by a failed ground wire splice into the fuel injector wiring assembly. The spark test revealed the lack of spark, then the wiring diagram led me to find that the ground wires were not connected to ground.

 

Common culprits include a weak or failing fuel pump, a faulty crankshaft position sensor, or issues with the ignition system, such as bad spark plugs or a malfunctioning coil pack.

 

Thank you for your feedback I've checked for spark and yes on all 8. I've since removed the intake manifold and discovered the 2 knock sensors were deformed due to high heat and the wires were also melted together (no bare wire showing just the shielding melted)
Also there was alot of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold, no idea why or how. Could use your advise on that as well. One other thing the intake manifold has a few big chunks of spongy heat shield material it was all melted and crumbled when I touched it.
Heat shield to protect the plastic intake manifold yes?

 

Have you scanned for any trouble codes? The oil in the intake is normal for these engines over time.