Realized my last service receipt states they used 0W20 oil, not 5W30. Still have about 1000 miles till the next change, but should I change it now? No clue why they used 0W20, when the reminder sticker even says 5W30 synthetic.

 

Why take a chance on a big ticket item like your engine for 1000 miles of use? That is some thin oil... colder temps will help but I'd get it out of there.

 

Who knows what grade oil. Did they make the mistake typing it in? Was it a mistake truly in what oil they used.

I just don't trust places. That's why I do my own maintenance.

 

Alright, it's coming out. First time doing my own oil change on the LR3, anything tricky I should know about?

 

Probably one of the easiest changes I've done in my driveway.

 

Sounds like you've never worked on 95% of vehicles WITHOUT giant heavy steel rock guards blocking the drain plug / oil filter with 10+ bolts...

Anyways - from a legality standpoint, that's incorrect oil for the cap / manual / website / tech procedures etc etc etc. They did it to themselves.

I'd demand an oil change with 5w30, and probably not go back there - because in the maintenance software, whenever the tech scrolled through the list of stuff to generate the repair ticket, he either didn't give a damn and clicked whatever, or did in fact click the improper oil he used in the vehicle.

Either way - that might be good for the barely-double-digit temps on the east coast lately, but at nearly 8k miles per OCI, the motor isn't going to enjoy it when it's ~90 degrees out.

 

Would you risk them not doing it correctly again? If one of the kids get their feeling hurt who knows what they will do on purpose.

 

Rovers strictly on road so I removed the skids and stored them...

 

There's some pretty fragile plastic coolant pieces above your front plate, you might wanna rethink your decision.

 

Well, the oil analysis from the old oil came back. Not good. Iron is high (95 vs 13 average), aluminum is high (15 vs 4 average), sodium is high (64 vs 37 average), and silicon is high (23 vs 10 average).

Here's what they commented:

"This viscosity is in the 0W/20, but we can't tell if it's synthetic or not in these tests. Universal
averages are based on oil run about 7,400 miles [oil was in for 4,400 miles], so that makes your high aluminum and iron really stand
out. Aluminum is from pistons and/or bearings, while iron is from steel parts like shafts and cylinders. Silicon
could show abrasive dirt, so check for air filtration issues. Sodium could be residual additive from a previous
oil (harmless), but we can't totally rule out coolant either. Watch for coolant loss as a precaution and check
back in 4,000 miles next time for another look."

Think the high iron and aluminum are just because the viscosity was too low? Makes me really worried given I just put this engine in.