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  #11  
Old 03-14-2017, 06:35 PM
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I would only use 0/20 in really cold climate. I use the recommended 5/20W and change every 6-6500miles, about 3 times a year.
 
  #12  
Old 03-14-2017, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jagfixer
I would only use 0/20 in really cold climate. I use the recommended 5/20W and change every 6-6500miles, about 3 times a year.
I know, I expected them to use the recommended (5W-30, at least for the LR3) but only discovered later the receipt said 0W-20. Changed it out as soon as I could, but it's been in there since summer.

I'm going to give the new oil (5W-30 synthetic) about 4000 miles and have that tested too. If the levels are still high, something is wrong.

Hopefully they just used crappy oil of the wrong viscosity and all will be back to normal with proper oil.
 
  #13  
Old 03-15-2017, 06:56 AM
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Was it used or new motor? Did you tell them this isn't the original motor? Has the oil been changed since the new motor was put in? Just guessing, but I'd say the numbers are unusually high from the newness of the motor. If new, probaly just "break in" but if a well worn used motor, there could have been surface rust on items like the camshaft that wore off when started for the first time in who knows how long.
 
  #14  
Old 03-15-2017, 08:49 AM
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Ah that's true. It is a used engine, it had 49k miles on it. And it had been lightly reconditioned, which means it probably had been apart somewhat, which could account for the higher silicon and aluminum.

I guess I just have to wait till the next oil change to see where things stand.
 
  #15  
Old 03-17-2017, 09:39 AM
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Good for you having the oil analyzed. Stuff like this is why everyone should at least know how to change the oil and DIY every time. Just use the standard Castrol Edge 5w-30 from now on. If you use an additive when you change it next try the BG MOA stuff (formerly BG109?), I had decent luck with it. Please do post back if you have the next set of oil analyzed. More data is useful for everyone!

I have never had the oil changed on any of my cars by someone else. Too much opportunity for idiots to brick a motor over something so simple yet so critical.
 
  #16  
Old 03-17-2017, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DavC
Good for you having the oil analyzed. Stuff like this is why everyone should at least know how to change the oil and DIY every time. Just use the standard Castrol Edge 5w-30 from now on. If you use an additive when you change it next try the BG MOA stuff (formerly BG109?), I had decent luck with it. Please do post back if you have the next set of oil analyzed. More data is useful for everyone!

I have never had the oil changed on any of my cars by someone else. Too much opportunity for idiots to brick a motor over something so simple yet so critical.
2 oil changes is all it took, a 50% error rate. Bought the truck, had the oil changed shortly after by the mechanic (supplied the correct oil and filter) only because I wasn't familiar with the truck yet and knew there were armor plates to be removed. The engine blew out before the next oil change, and they put the 0W-20 in when they installed the new (used) engine. I'm totally with you, I haven't paid for an oil change in over 10 years before I got the LR3 and look where it got me.

I'm definitely analyzing the oil from here on out as I do with my other car as well. It's really only useful if you do it every time to identify trends.

Here are the results in case you guys are curious:

 
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