I would think changing it regularly would be more important than changing it to something else. I just don't buy the hype of lifetime anything. I blame Kalifornia. ;-)

 

If you look on Dealer's spreadsheet regarding coolant type, it is the same for almost all land rovers , LR3 , D2,RRS and RR.Dexcool ZEREX is what my local dealer sells in case they run out of OEM Extended Life coolant.

 

Update... With the new tires, Bridgestone Duelers, and new brakes the truck is running well and feels good.

As for the brakes. I went to Big O as it was half of what the dealer wanted, I spoke with the tech who said he had done LR3s before and before I mentioned it brought up the fact the parking brake needed special attention when doing LR3s. Big O wasnt the cheapest place when calling around but seemed reasonable and the guy sounded like he knew what he was doing... So I pulled the trigger.

I get there and the guy says it will be done in about 90 minutes. 6 hours later he tells me that the brakes are in and installed correctly but he cant get the brake pad warning light to turn off. He says he clears the code but as soon as the car starts up again the same code pops. AAARRRGGGG!!!!

 

Did they use new sensors or are they re-using the old sensors? I guess they are easy to damage. When I got my LR3 the rear brakes looked fairly new, but the light was on. I found the sensor wire just hanging, because where it snaps into the pad had broken. I put a new sensor on and all is good now.

 

Guy claims to have gotten new sensors from Napa. I am unaware if NAPA actually carries them or if they are a dealer only part. I probably should have known that answer before I took it down there....

On another note. With the new tires and new brakes I drove my new baby over the continental divide from central Colorado to Wyoming today. Great drive in light snow but heavy wind. Beautiful! LR ran great and felt more solid than any vehicle I have ever driven. We get to the hotel, turn off the LR, and go check in. I come back out to park my baby and the transmission light is on!!!!!! WTF!!!!!! Arrrrrrgggggg!!!!

Granted I knew I was getting a LR3 that, in general, is known to be persnickity, but holy crap!!! I would have really like to have a few weeks of use without having a heart attack every time a warning light comes on!!

As for the car. It just passed an inspection at the dealer with no issues to the trans and has been running great with zero problems. There is no smell or weird noises, it is shifting just fine, and nothing is leaking. I planned on getting the front and rear diff fluid changed on tuesday so I am hoping all will remain ok at least until then.

Ive tried what I think is called a soft reset. I put the key in the ignition turn it as far as it will go before activating the ignition (3 times rapidly) and then on the 4th turn push it all the way activating the ignition and starting the car. Is there a way to tell a soft reset was successful?

 

Yeah, you can get the sensors most anywhere. Sometimes they have to order them. I got mine from amazon or rock auto, don't recall at the moment. They kind of hard to connect the harness, I've only messed with the rear one, and I'll bet the front is even more difficult.

I sometimes get a transmission/hdc fault message. It goes away if I restart. It kind of makes me think something is wrong in the ignition switch, if that's even possible, because I can reproduce it if I mess with how I start it. When I read the code its for a communication error between the transmission computer and the gauge cluster.

 

Invest $15 and ten minutes replacing the brake light switch. It can wear to a point that it sends strange signals to the ABS and that can freak out the transmission ECU. Doesn't mean anything is actually wrong with your transmission. There are a lot of electronics in the LR3 all chatting away on their network. One of them shouts "squirrel" and fun can happen.

Never heard of a soft reset. A hard reset is disconnecting the power cables from the battery and connecting them together for a few minutes (do not short the battery or you have bigger issues!).

 

I was getting several similar codes upon startup for a while. Recently replaced my battery and all have gone away. I remember reading a few years back that the D3 tends to throw codes when the battery is on its way out.

How old is your battery?

 

Wear sensors are about $15. The front isn't too bad, but you have to remove the fender splash guard to get to the plug. Did all of my brakes and sensors in just under an hour. Total invested was just over $100. A cordless impact is your friend ( I have a 1/2" Snap on that is worth its weight in gold). Remember to torque your wheels. I watched the guy at Firestone mount my tires and he ran them down with an impact and then used his torque wrench, and of course, it clicked immediately. I had to explain to him that the impact had already torqued it higher than the recommended torque, and that he should have been able to turn it a little before it clicked. had him break all of the lug nuts loose and torque them properly. Pads are very easy to change, and can be found very cheap at Partsgeek.com, Rockauto.com, or Autopartswarehouse.com. If you tow alot, spend the extra money and go with the EBC pads. Still under $200 and worth it. Replacing the pads is just as easy as any other vehicle, two bolts to remove the calipers, a cclamp to compress them back to make room for the new pads, and one front-left and one rear-right brake pad wear sensor.

 

Man I just cant catch a break with this LR3. I still love it but holy cow things are going wrong by the week. The latest issue is the rear tailgate and window wont open. I can hit the little square on the window to open it up and I can hear it make the same normal noise it always does but it wont unlock. Ive tried it a bunch of times and I know the rest of the vehicle is unlocked so I dont know what the deal is. I suspect the cable broke but I dont know. Is there a manual way to open the back door?