Just figured while I was in the neighborhood I'd check the connection. I'm getting a MONGOOSE JLR as a father's day gift. I figure a high tech machine needs a high tech reader/programmer. Once I get the program up and running maybe I can get some advice?

 

How are you hooking up the Mongoose?

I don't know of any aftermarket software that allows it, and unless you're spending ~ $8 grand on the SPX computer and subscription, it's useless. It can not be used with the older software, and the newer software needs to be logged in each time it is used.

Just saying this as a heads up, and also curious if there is an option I am not aware of.

 

Mongoose original type cable not the pro running the old 128 software. It can be run on a laptop emulating XP rather than 7. You can set windows 7 to do that.

 

With DVD 128 you won't be able to program anything, unless you get it locked somehow, it will force an update to newer software. I suggest turning off wifi on the laptop to keep it from trying to update on its own also.

 

As is recommended. Fully programmable, where there is code there is a back door for the developers to access it. Just find the back door and open it. Surprisingly it's rarely removed before the software goes to market.

 

Huge loss of pressure when it dies. Got it to die 6 times. 4 times it was as if the pump just shut off. 2 times it chugged along at about 200 rpm and croaked when I came to a full stop. It wasn't a gradual drop. 65psi down to around 25. Around 40 when it was chugging, trying so desperately to stay alive So I'm pretty sure its the pump. Since I only want to drop the tank ONCE in my life my question is do I need or should I replace for good measure anything else in relation to the pump? Also any advice, tricks or tips, list of special tools, seals and gaskets would be greatly appreciated. I want to be able to take my "box-o-parts" and get this job done in one fell swoop without multiple trips to the dealer.

 

A little off topic but, does anyone know the size of the retaining nut on the inner tie rod. Land Rover doesn't include it on their tie rod so I had to use the one off of a MOOG tie rod I ordered.

 

Before dropping $750+ on the fuel pump I scoured the web for some more info. I came across a thread about relays and did some more digging. I tested the fuel pump relay as instructed by some You Tube vids and I didn't find anything wrong with it but I figured since any heavy jolt to the front end causes my stalling/shut down issue I decided to knock it around a bit with the multimeter on it. Presto! problem found. I swapped it out with the headlight washer relay and put around 400 trouble free miles on the 3. I think we got it nailed this time. Thanks again to all for your help.

 

These Rovers are hard to diagnose!

A lousy fuel pump relay - something that rarely goes but is easy to replace - you just swapped it with another one, and presto, a years worth of trouble probably solved.

Congratulations - you are well qualified to continue to drive your Rover.

Welcome to a very select group.

Land Rover - making mechanics out of drivers since 1948!

 

I thought of that as well because my honda 2002 v6 coupe does same i changed the relay and fine am good but now they have mess up my pump assy they tested the pump it work fine but the problem is they have messed up the fuel hose cant be tight back to the pump without leak i need help on this can you advice