Hi all,

Long time reader first time poster here (2005 LR3 SE - 172k mi) and need some expert advice. From scouring related posts I more than likely blown a head gasket but hoping symptoms may point to water pump or thermostat. The radiator was replaced last week after an 75-80% overheat on the freeway at high speed. Vehicle was road and pressure tested by indie mechanic but overheated after driving <2miles away from the shop. This comes one week after I had the transfer case replaced by a different indie mechanic who I trust (clicking/popping at acceleration and load - solved the problem at $2.8k) along with front struts. Not sure if these could be related - the vehicle drove fine for a week at long distances after this repair until overheating. Apologies for post length.

Overheat:

After driving for <10 minutes and about 1 minute after accelerating on the freeway I noticed loud/labored engine noises and then the "reduced engine performance" warning followed by steam/smoke from under the hood. The temp gauge shot to about 75-80% (I don't think it ever reached full red). I slowed the vehicle and the temperature went down as I came to a stop. Opened the hood and I saw the coolant hose had blown away from the radiator and reconnected it (coolant was sprayed throughout the engine compartment causing steam) Coolant was very low and added some on the freeway and waited 5 minutes or so. Restarted and the engine was back to 50% heat. I drove at low speed to get off the freeway with the temp raising slightly if speed was over 10-15mph. Luckily one of the indie LR shops I have used in Los Angeles was less than a mile from where this happened.

The mechanic identified the coolant hoses that broke away and that the radiator should be replaced because the threaded plastic piece where the coolant hose attached to the radiator had broken. The hoses could not be properly connected without failing - no indication of if the radiator itself was shot or clogged. ($975 - first time replacing) They road tested the vehicle and pressure tested the system without any issue.

Driving away from the shop the car was driving okay - a little noisy and radiator/fan louder than normal. About 1.5 miles (20-40mph) and 10 minutes later the fan grew louder and the temp gauge gradually began rising; I immediately turned it off at about 75% heat. 1-2 min later restarted - back at 50% and drove 1000 feet or so, overheating again. This time it would not restart and there was a strange electrical sound, followed by the starter attempting about 5 times. Thinking the car was a lost cause, it did eventually restart after 10-15min when it cooled down (not sure if it was in fail safe mode from heat) I left the car parked where this happened and I am having it towed back to the shop tomorrow. I realize I should not have driven it once it initially overheated.

Main symptoms:

1) Water leaking after about 10 minutes from middle of the vehicle fairly profusely at times. It is certainly water but a slight viscosity to it (no oil) (photos attached)
2) Very slight steam out of left exhaust
3) No heat in the vehicle even at 50%
4) The vehicle runs 100% cold for 20 minutes and warms to 50% including up to 3000rpm (have not attempted beyond this or driving).
5) Radiator/fan very loud first 10 seconds at start
6) Small coolant leak on passenger side and from both sides of the radiator. The system was pressure tested after the radiator was replaced. There was air in the coolant lines which I burped several times.
8) No oil in coolant. Oil is clear and no sign of coolant mix on cap or level stick.
9) Loud noise coming from the water pump (never replaced) or thermostat (replaced at 100k) area of engine. Bleeder valve replaced and not cracked. Similar overheats in the past where fixed by thermostat, system flushing, and hose replacements.

Basically, I'm hoping that it is the water pump or thermostat and not the head gasket ($$). Could this also just be air or debris in the coolant lines? Steam and water/coolant leaking along with the initial overheat points to head gasket. If so what is a fair price these days for head gasket from an indie mechanic? Hoping less than $2k.

Thanks!

Photos of water leak location (under mesh pan in middle of vehicle)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...hzai0zakZhVUp3
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...JnaS1BQ1MzdnZv
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...xxdTliUmQzaDZJ
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...gyWkpBcW9WeXhZ
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...lxTWhwaVNSc1dv
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...R4MTJCSmxTU09B

 

You need to have a leak down test performed.

This is the only way you can positively confirm head gasket or not.

 

What ended up being the culprit? Last time this happened to me, it ended up being the water pump but just curious how yours turned out.