Ahhhh.....okay then yeah they shouldn't have, because they don't work for $hit! Hahahahaha.

Clearly, it's Saturday afternoon and I've started drinkin'.....I've just had poor results with an AGM, that's all. Take it for what it's worth.

 

So I am back again with another update. Unfortunately, after replacing battery twice, and the alternator, my 2006 LR3 will still not keep the battery charged. I am starting to think maybe I need to change the tensioner and belts? Even thought the belts look newer, perhaps they are stretching when under duress? So obviously it is the large serpentine belt I am talking about but might as well do the AC belt as well. But I guess LR recommends changing the tensioners after a certain amount of mileage. But also, you a mentioned a 400 amp fuse in the box by the battery, did you mean a 40 amp? I don’t see 400 listed in the manual.

 

There is a 400 amp fuse at the positive battery post. I have seen a few LR3 missing this though.

 

Ahh, I believe that is there, but I will double check tomorrow. Thank you again for your prompt and very helpful replies!!! If it’s there, I will examine and see if I see any issues. But do you think it is worth it to change the tensioner on that belt?

 

Take it all apart to look for corrosion. You may also just want to replace the fuse, any auto place would have them. Just incase the fuse itself is bad. I doubt if it is a belt/tension issue. Pretty easy to check though, maybe sure the belt is not cracked a ton and make sure it is not super easy to pull/push. It will move, just not much as you fight the tensioner.

 

I changed both the tensioner (complete unit ) and the idler pulley recently when i replaced the waterpump, coolant outlet and belt - single belt on the TDV6.
16 years and 235k klms on the originals and all looked/felt good as new apart from the waterpump that started leaking, worth replacing if original for peace of mind.

 

The belts look good and are very tight, and when I did the alternator the tensioner seemed like it was doing its job, but I thought maybe when it is under duress it is not. But I will check that fuse and probably just replace to see if that is an easy fix. And it is possible that the remanufactured alt is a dud. It’s a Bosch like the original but not a “brand new part”!
Thank you all for your replies.

 

So I took the little box off that holds the fuse and examined the fuse carefully to see if I could see any problem. It looked pretty new but hard to tell. Haven’t been to the parts store yet to see if they had one. Reinstalled, connected battery, then cleared all the faults that came up from power failure. I did see a code that said “low frequency coil” and that it was permanent. I also saw for some of the systems that it said the voltage was too high.Not sure if that is related. But then drove around for awhile and saw battery symbol flicker a few times but it did not come back on. When I checked with volt meter after, battery was above 12 volts, but alternator voltage was showing just under 14 volts with everything turned on. Not sure how to proceed; hate to fire the parts cannon for belts and tensioner but keeping my powder dry!

 

Fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts, maybe 12.8 initially. If that is the case, and alternator is putting out 14 volts, I would say that part of the system is good.

 

Voltage too high codes would worry me. Although is this the tread that mentioned disconnecting the battery when running? If so, that would cause that spike. But if those codes come back, the alternator needs to be replaced for sure.