Hello all, this is my first post on this LR3 forum.

I am trying to purchase 2008 LR3 SE with 164000 miles. During my inspection I found few things that I can do DIY. But I found that during my OBII scan, that IM ready is NOT ready for smog check in California, it is showing O2S is not ready. Please note that there is not DTC pending or current. So No Codes. Or NO Check Engine light.

See photos. Is any one know how I can clear this O2S ready so I can purchase 2008 LR3 SE and get smog check.

 

Looks like they were recently replaced and you just need more driving time.

Basically in any car monitors like that need a certain number of driving cycles to reset. (start, warm up, 20 min driving minimum preferably highway, cool down)

 

It could also mean they just recently reset the engine light before you came to look at it. The system needs more time/miles to activate. It prevents people from clearing engine codes just prior to DEQ/smog testing. So it could have some engine issues they're trying to mask by clearing codes before buyers see it.

Just a thought

 

Blackngold77 and elemental_garage, thank so much for your quick and prompt reply. I decided that I will not purchase 2008 Land Rover LR3 SE.

I went and purchased 2005 Land Rover LR3 SHE that was smog checked by owner. It is nice SUV. Drive very well, comfortable and compare to my 2011 Mercedes G-550 very roomy.

There are few minor issues with 2005 LR3 SHE, if any one can chime in will be greatly appreciated.

1. Sunroof is not operable. It is not opening. There are no sign of water leakage etc. All looks fine.
2. AC is blowing nice cold all over in the LR3. But when I used heater, I have notice all the went in back 2nd row and 3rd row and front passenger side blow hot air as it supposed to be, but on driver side 2 vent just blow regular outside air, no heat. Are there some kind of flaps that are not opening for heater function?
3. This 2005 LR3 has parking sensor only in back, for some reason once in while when LR3 in park or reverse, I see P sensor RED light blinks, but then when I start to drive, then all good. How to find which sensor in rear bumper is bad? Is there is a way to diagnose it ?
4. The middle row windows from front driver door are only opening, but not closing. But from middle row door switch I can put window up and down. Is there is issue with driver door window switch assembly that only allowing middle row windows to go down, but cannot be go up? Any suggestions.
5. 2005 LR3 came with one key. I was looking at eBay to find key for 2005 LR3. I found 2 frequency on keys 433 MHz and 315 MHz, which key I should by that I can take it to my local Indy shop to program for my 2005 LR3, 433 MHz or 315 MHz? Please any suggestion here.

Thank you all in advance for your support.

 

This is what I bought for my 2008 LR3. It's a 315 mhz, and I was able to program it myself with a GAP tool. Had a local locksmith cut the key portion to match my single key.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/332257874310

 

Step 1 before you do anything is to buy a GAP IID Tool. Yes, it's pricey, but it pays for itself 10x over. It gives you as close to a dealer's computer as you can get and its all on your phone via bluetooth. You can reset ECUs and parameters, you can change the ride height, calibrate the suspension, program a new key, see live values, etc. It makes troubleshooting and working on the truck a breeze and saves you a lot of unneeded costs.

Regarding your list of concerns:

1, It happens, simple fix. Just hold the sunroof close button down for 20-60 seconds until the sunroof cycles through open/vent/close then you're all set. It's like turning a computer off and on to troubleshoot.

2. Sounds like a blend door in the dash being stuck to me, others have had more experience with that issue and the fix.

3. The P red light is just the light that says if the parking brake is engaged or not, not the sensors. If the sensors are busted, you'll just hear a couple second solid tone and the orange light on the center console over the sensor button will flash. The parking brake issue could be worn out pads, the wire out of spec, etc. The parking brake units on these suck, they use plastic gears that wear down. There are kits to replace the gears, not a super easy job but not impossible either, the box is up underneath the spare tire in back. First thing I'd do is putting the parking brake on and off. If it ever sticks on, there's a release cable under the center console that's easy to reach. take out the little coin spot next to the gear shift and pop out the plastic piece under it. You'll see a silver braided metal loop, thats the release. hook anything sturdy you can on it and give a couple hard yanks straight up.

4. Sounds like a switch issue on the front door. I'd try swapping that out first.

5. With a GAP tool you can program it yourself at home using your existing key and the step by step process on the tool.

 

elemental_garage, thank you so much for the key information, very appreciate.

 

Blackngold77, thank you so much for reply, greatly appreciated. I will work on LR3 next weekend. I will post and let you know what worked and what not.

This is first time I am on Land Rover Forum, you all are very helpful. Typically I am on Benzworld forum.

I will buy the GAP Diagnostic IID tool you have recommended for Land Rover.

Thank you again.