I was able to program plus 50mm with the gap tool.

 

I can only get up to 35

the front will go up to 45 but the rear won’t go past 35.

if I run the calibration do you I might find a few mm?

I did rebuild the air pump and replace the rear valve block about a year ago.

 

Are you doing it thru the presets or adjustment, i set default 1 to plus 25mm and default 2 to plus 50mm.

 

I just did the one where you can store the three profiles.

 

hmm, that what i did and i was able to set 50mm.

 

From what I understand each lr3 is unique as to how much lift you can get out of the gap tool. Some people get more some get less. I guess there is a variance in each air shock/sensor/etc and the calibration sets it so they are all the same. I think it is my passenger side rear its some 20mm off from the other 3.

 

It did well enough in the snow and gas mileage is still about 14MPG on average. Had to move the the height sensor cable up. I cut the tape and flipped the brackets then added a metal clip to hold it up close. This gave me just enough room for it not to rub in access height mode.Do you think if I went with the 265/65 tire I would not have had any rubbing since it is more narrow?

 

What do you mean you "flipped the brackets?"

It's hard to say about the potential for rubbing with the 265s; probably not....but I wouldn't worry about it. You moved the wires so no sweat, you're good.

If you do rub it to the point that it ruptures the harness, you will get a suspension fault. If you have Adaptive lights you'll get a fault related to that, too. If you have the 4x4 info screen you will see one wheel looking wonky with the red dashed light flashing. Other than that, everything will still WORK!!! ....and a wiring loom is fairly inexpensive and you can splice it in. Not a huge deal....ask me how I know all this.

 

The black and white clip I rotated. I used some springy stainless steel to make a little clip to hold it up and out of the way. Only issue I see with this is it might rub a bit more over time.

 

Ahhh.....I see. That's clever. Most of us just zip-tie the bundle up to that vertical piece coming off the frame. The result is pretty much the same.

That said, a few years ago I got into a bad situation and had my tire stuffed way up in there and it ripped it apart anyway. Must have been pretty violent to destroy the zip-tie. Anyway. So I re-jiggered the whole thing and used two stainless steel zip-ties instead of one nylon tie. To ensure that the SS wouldn't rub the wire bundle and cut it. I wrapped the wire bundle in stainless steel mesh, another layer of that plastic conduit and a whole $hitload of electrical tape. We zip-tied it in a few places; it's in good shape now!