Yeah, I would maybe just try to free up all the bolts before you full commit incase you need to order them. The front uppers are usually never an issue, just one side is a little "fun" to get at, lots of long exertions and crap. I dont recall if my rear lowers were an issue, I would think so? But I know for a fact my rear uppers were hell. So I guess see how the front goes and then you will know the game plan later for the rears when you do em. At least you only really have four bolts to worry about at most. But when you do decide to do the rear end, check with the forum first. There are some things with the rear knuckles that can be an issue....

 

I have a better chance of picking winning lotto numbers then getting a reusable control arm bolt

 

So far the front control arms came off without a hitch, weren’t rusted or stuck at all. Clearance for the uppers was tight and awkward.

Going to loosen the rears this evening or Monday…holiday parties getting in the way.

 

I was able to loosen all of the suspension bolts except the rear top control arm front bolts. Broke two breaker bars and no amount of hammering made them budge. Decided to leave them in place and just proceed with the suspension lift knowing that it will wear the bushings out quickly. These are the original control arms so it’s just a matter of time until they needed replacement anyways.

My wife is getting impatient with me being gone every evening working at my parents heated garage for the last couple days, so I’ll live with the consequences for now.

Goodyear Duratracs 275/65/18 get installed on Tuesday.

 

Update:
After getting the Rover off the jack stans (old wheels on for now), the terrain response system was deactivated and I could not inflate the air shocks. I dug around the forums but couldn't find a solution. Tried multiple times and various sequences of putting the vehicle in tight tolerance mode, running through the guided calibration, resetting the vehicle, etc. In the end, I noticed there was an option in the GAP tool to reenable the EAS - which did the trick.

I calibrated the new ride default ride height for a 1.5" lift at normal ride height. Do I need to change any settings for the extended and access mode, or will the rover just adjust based on the new normal height?

 

There are not other calibrations to do. The other heights are relative, sorta, to the standard height calibration.

 

Glad to hear it, I wonder if it made an difference if I went through the guided calibration while
in access or extended mode.

just got the Rover back from Belle Tire. They want the rear upper control arms replaced…must be a different technician. Turns out I’ll be cutting them off next weekend.

in the meantime, enjoy this beauty. Goodyear Duratracs 275/65/R18.

 

You can’t. The calibration applies to standard height only. That’s why the system goes offline when doing it. Does not matter what the switch is set to. Looks good! I think with larger toes and some lift the wheel wells just fill up better. Stock size is too small.

 

That is a nice setup.

So, has anybody else thought that maybe LR could have centered the rear wheels a bit better in the wheel wells? I have looked at mine and thought it needed to be about an inch or two back. It's just a bot off.

 

If that is the case, you may have worn bushings or need an alignment. During articulation they do move reward a little but at normal height they should not look too far off center in the wells. Do you have a nice side profile photo you can post?