Recently my battery went dead (left the console cooler on) and somehow after I charged the battery, my wife noticed the CD player was working again.

Weird, I know.

Note that I never got any errors, it just wouldn't play or eject the CDs.

 

Sounds like CBTA (cold boot, try again) worked, for now at least. The CD changer on my D2 will occasionally give me a NO DISC error, and sometimes not eject. I have found that unplugging the changer power supply for a few minutes resolves the problem for me.

 

Does anyone know how to fix there own CD player in a 2005 LR3 HSE or are there any how to videos???????????????????

 

Do you want to swap it with an after market double din head unit?

 

I had the same issue with a cd error. Dealer quoted me $600 to remove the radio and at least $500 to repair, possibly more as they didn't know what was wrong.


Removed the radio myself....it took 20 minutes and there are instructions on youtube. Took apart the radio cd stacker and found a jammed cd. removed it and reinstalled. Works fine.

 

Would you post the YouTube link so the rest of us can learn the secret as well?

And thank you for posting of your success - it gives us all hope.

 

Sure mate. This is the youtube for removing the radio after you remove the center console fascia and the radio fascio....the plastic borders. You lift up and twist as you lift the shift ****. The center console lifts up from the rear.


The fascia on around the radio is lifted up from the bottom and removed.


When you lift the center console you need to carefully reach underneath to feel for the wire connections and press the release on each before trying to pull them out. Not as hard as is sounds as you should have enough space to do it without too much difficulty. Good luck


PS: BTW there is a prior youtube on removing the fascias which you should be able to find after you link to the one below.


PSS: when you have the radio on the bench you will find to ribbon cables connected to the face plate. Carefully pry up the black clips on the outside of the connector to remove the cable. when installing leave the top metal plate where the other end of the cables open and remove the ribbon cables from there so you can connect them to the face plate. There isn't enough room to connect them to the face plate if they are connected inside so you just do it in reverse. Hope that makes sense. Happy to answer any questions.


When I reinstalled the radio and pressed CD it did a self check. Just drove 100kms and it preformed flawlessly with all six cds loaded.


cheers
Jeff

 

Thanks for the video. I took your suggestion and looked at some of the other videos as well that followed. They can be quite informative.

I appreciate your comments re the ribbon cables - have yet to have to take mine apart so the heads up is important. One pretty much has to be able to fix this stuff oneself as not many know anything about our infotainment system - it is just too advanced.

Another problem can be the phone pad buttons quit, or one of them does. LR now sells the phone pad separately so that is another reason to know how to get into the radio head.

Replacement of the pad used to require that you got a whole new radio. I guess the reason for the pad now being available is that the buttons were going defective while the vehicle was still under factory warranty. The fact that replacing the radio was the only fix was seen as a problem for Land Rover.

 

Hi guys, just some more info. If you have a jammed cd player, when you do get it open you will have to release the pin that goes through the hole in the cd. It can be depressed with a jewellers screwdriver or some other thin tool. BTW I found I was getting frequent invalid cd messages on perfectly good cds. Isolated to heat from the car heater. The cd player seems to be heat sensitive. Lowering the temperature cured this issue. Good luck Jeff

 

I brought my 2006 LR3 into the dealer 3-4 times around the same issue. Strange thing was if I hard wired the radio and changer it would work. (They rarely do this test for some reason). They gave me a spiel about how the radio was fried and would never work again. Since I had already done some trouble shooting of my own I asked them to look for a short. As all of you most likely know there should have been a recall on the front window and moon roof drains as they are faulty and cause water to drain in to the vehicle where the main wiring harness is.

To make a long story short they could not find the issue. I decided to continue troubleshooting myself. What was odd was after I disconnected the battery for 5-7 minutes so that the computer would reset hola! everything worked as it should!! I decided to troll around on these types of boards until I found a great mechanic in Madison Wisconsin who was a life savor and must of had half a brain before working for Land Rover. He had found that there was an issue where the computer was not resetting electrical connections that were monitored through the main computer. So for a while until he could find a fix as he had a handful of people who had the same issue. It turned out that by updating to the latest firmware for the computer it fixed the issue w/ the damn radio!!! This didn't help the 2,000$ + I had already spent at the dealership because more than the radio sometimes would come up and cause a fault code. As most of you do I keep a code reader in my LR at all times just in case.

What this comes down to is first off beware of any upgrades to your computer as I'm sure you all have heard the horror stories about the Land Rover Range Rover Sport HSE vehicles that are plagued w/ strange computer issues. I really hope LR/RR takes a queue from this and goes away from the single main harness crap and also doesn't connect non computer needed devices through the main computer. The reason RR Sports go for 8-9k and cost 80-90k when they were new is because of these issues. The same can happen to your LR3 though they seem to be a bit more hardy.

Find a dealer that is aware of this issue, then have them update your computer to the latest *STABLE* release of the computer firmware. The latest isn't the greatest in the case and I was told from a mechanic at a LR dealership that they are told not to open that can of worms as it can cause other issues.

I ended up making the drive and had mine updated to a working firmware version and all the sudden things that were causing errors, radio not working, odd things happen when using the special traction control settings at times all went away and the car has worked like a gem since. I ask not to have them touch the firmware until I hear the word from my out of state mechanic who tells me what firmware version to ask to have them update to. They are technically supposed to update your firmware anytime you come in and it isn't current but, they are *NOT* doing this.

Lastly, I would seriously encourage *EVERYONE* to start complaining about these issues more, in my opinion on the RR Sports and the LR3's spanning from 2003->2012 should all have computer recalls amongst a couple of other recalls, because of all the problems myself and others I know have gone through. When I read this thread I wonder how many people had the same issue. I would go in to the my local dealership when they would tell me the radio was fried and disconnect the battery wait until it reset the computer and then everything would work w/o any fault codes and ask them then if the radio was fried why would everything work properly!? They said it was just luck.

This is completely what recalls are for and its about time we all got a recall on this issue after all the money spent troubleshooting these issues. The window and moonroof drains should also be a recall because replacing the harness is as much as buying a used LR3 or RR Sport of the same year!!

I love land rovers / range rovers but, the service has sucked ever since they have partnered up w/ Jaguar. I never wanted to own a Jaguar because of these types of problems and now i'm stuck dealing w/ them regardless.

If anyone wants a reference to a mechanic who can help explain in more detail please pm me in private and I can shoot you some contact information.

To verify if this issue applies to you. If your changer or radio ceases to work take the following steps.

Open your hood
take the battery plastic cover off so you can get to the battery
disconnect the positive and the negative to the battery.
Set a timer for 7 minutes.
Reconnect the battery and everything should work as it should.

If this is the case all of the above should be true.

PM me if you have any issues!

-Luke Swihart