So i took the compressor out to rebuild and the 10mm line was melted in there, I ruined the push fitting getting it out. Now looking at replacement compressors. Anyone have experience with the $200 compressors on ebay? Such as this ebay compressor

 

I am sure that compressor will work fine. At least for six months, maybe a year.

What line are you speaking of? 10mm would be intake/exhaust I think. Have a pic of the damage? If its what I think it is, you may be able to repair it with a drill and a fitting.

 

So I was able to find a 3/8 ss fitting with 1/4" NPT thread that I was able to tap and screw on there (see pic). What does the larger 10mm line do?

I'm still getting the same C1A20 intermittently (not every start). I've noticed the front is raising much slower than the rear (I pulled up the heights of each corner on my icarsoft). Do you think the front valve block is partially clogged? Should I replace the front valve block.

When rebuilding my compressor the dessicant was hard (I'm surprised if any air was moving thru it)

 

One line is intake, the other exhaust. What you did I myself had to do with one port. Going forward I will be all about cutting lines and adding push connects to make things easier. I think some compressor models might just use one line for both.

The desiccant was hard? Wow, it might have been water soaked once then got all stuck together. But I have not heard of or seen that before. I guess that could be replaced to the valve block. I have no heard of them actually clogging. What typically happens is the desiccant breaks down, forms a powder and this gets into the valve blocks. The small particles get wedged between the o-rings and mating surface causing air leaks. In your case, I would recommend pulling the line from the dryer and the other end at the valve block - then run some air through it and see if it may be clogged. I would also run a light solvent though followed by air to purge the desiccant particles. After that fun, rebuild the valve block.

 

Yea the dessicant was like one solid cylinder. My car doesn't sink at all when parked even for a week, do you think the valve block is worth looking at? Any other ideas why the front would rise much slower than the rear?

 

Well, lets back up a second. When is the raising slow?

Under idea conditions, the car should never raise much after you start it and the compressor should not kick-in. For me if there is a big temperature change, the front end may pop up a little after the rear does and the compressor may run. But the raising is quick and subtle.

With a valve block leak at either end, you could have the same scenario as above. But if the rear is leaking also, the reservoir tank may get depleted enough that when its time to raise the front it has to run off the compressor directly as the tank is empty/low. Really, its just pumping air into the tank then then makes it on to the front bags.

Lastly, the air reservoir tanks can leak. There is a recent thread on this. So if you have a tank leak AND valve block leak, you could have a low front that needs to be raised but not ample air stored to do the job. So again, its runs off the compressor.

So anytime raising is slow, it generally means you are lifting off compressor alone and not a large volume of stored air. You of course can reach this same situation if you are playing with the height switch too much. And I recommend you do just that. Start the vehicle and go into access height. If the compressor is running, wait for it to stop. Then go into normal height. The rear and front should raise quickly on tank pressure along. If you feel the front is still raising slowly there is certainly an issue.

 

I was playing with the height switch. Up and down. Goes down quickly. On the way up the compressor runs for prob a full minute to get into offroad height from normal (front much slower than rear). I always hear the compressor turn on when raising. My compressor turns on every time I start the car. The car doesn't drop at all over night (even a week).

Is the gallery pressure same as reservoir pressure? It takes it's time but gets up to 1600+

I found this PDF online, pretty handy

 

But did you wait for the compressor to stop running before raising? You did not specify that exactly and its an important point. If it lowers quickly, that sorta rules out a blockage as the same line is used for air in and out. You will hear the compressor when raising of course, once the reservoir drops below a threshold he compressor kicks in. So when raising, that tank pressure drops enough almost instantly.

I think galley pressure is the same term for the reservoir. But not 100% certain as it could mean the pressure that exists in the lines and the reservoir could have its own own pressure sensor. But I think there is only one pressure sensor on the proportioning block which is connected to the reservoir.

 

As I understand it, correct there is only one pressure sensor in the reservoir valve block (the one on the chassis rail near the compressor). The pressure value indicated depends on the status of the associated valves.

In addition to the PDF linked, this diagram shows how things are interconnected: https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/dis...um=3802&pos=10

 

So my car is throwing the C1A20 before the system reaches full pressure. I was watching the pressures with compressor on, jumps up to 1200 kpa almost instantly then struggles to get up to 1550 slowly, then I get the C1A20 code and compressor shuts off. Interestingly after the compressor is off the pressure drops pretty fast, down to 100 kpa (atmospheric pressure) within a couple minutes. So there's definitely a leak, not sure where. I sprayed the reservoir with soapy water, didn't get any bubbles - but I was only seeing the bottom of it. I didn't hear a leak sound. What do you guys suggest - new reservoir?