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Air Reservoir slow to fill

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Old Sep 4, 2024 | 10:14 AM
  #1  
robkneeland's Avatar
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Default Air Reservoir slow to fill

Hi Peoples

Just going through my new-to-me LR3. Suspension fault is the post title. Are there common leak points? Do the compressors get tired? Would you overhaul the compressor or buy new? I see aftermarket compressors, just concerned about quality.

I will start by checking for leaks.

Thanks

Just got my Gap tool and I am impressed!

Rob
 
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Old Sep 4, 2024 | 10:42 AM
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I would start with a simple overhaul to refresh/rebuild (there are kits, assuming you have the Hitachi)
change out the old desiccant, maybe get the metal dryer cap (plastic cap can crack between fittings, obvious leak point)
inspect all air line fittings with soapy water

clean out the lines as best you can - old desiccant turns to powder and can travel and clog things up, including the front/rear valve blocks (which causes overnight sag)
refresh/rebuild the valve blocks/o-rings - maybe a few weeks after changing desiccant and cleaning things up
 
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Old Sep 4, 2024 | 11:00 AM
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Thanks

I'll be checking for leaks and will replace the drying medium. I will check the top of the tank for leaks. There is some corrosion. I may remove, blast and paint the tank if it is not too bad. Then on to the compressor. Appreciate the pointers.

Rob
 
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Old Sep 4, 2024 | 04:19 PM
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I'm dealing with something similar at the moment. Metal reservoir tank is a known failure point. Best to remove it to check for leaks with pressurized air before you blast and repaint it. Definitely recommend replacing the air dryer cap along with the service of the compressor. X8r has everything you'll need. Good luck!
 
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Old Sep 4, 2024 | 04:43 PM
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I am just here to say douglastic is spot on. But I will add that there is an issue with the Hitachi compressor and the exhaust port. There is a small red or black plunger that can get hard and not seal well, this can cause the compressor to underperform and when rebuilding, make sure the kit comes with what I link below or get it separate.
This is just na example, feel free to shop around:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175544511539

As for compressors if you end up having to replace one, the aftermarket quality is all over the place which also means you can get one that may work just fine for a year or two, or more. Or you can install it and have issues from day one. The only aftermarket brand I can recommend is Arnott. They were really small back in the 2000s but very popular in the Lincoln crowd, which I was in, for making reliable struts and compressors. Today they still seem pretty dang good and cover A LOT more vehicles including Rover. I am running one of their compressors now. They only make "AMK" style and since I had always been running Hitachi, I had to make a software change with my GAP tool. So far it has been working perfectly.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2024 | 11:33 AM
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Interesting info re Arnott. My other car is a MB S Class and Arnott makes quality air struts for that application.

Thanks
Rob
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 06:46 AM
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X8R was a great recommendation...tks
 
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Old Sep 27, 2024 | 07:39 AM
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So far...reservoir is corroded but not leaking. Pressure increases but only to 200+- (<244psi) then the system kicks off saying too slow to fill. So far I've not found any other leaks, even the dryer cap. But the pressure does decrease rapidly when the compressor stops, suggesting a leak. Maybe the reservoir control valve...maybe internal leak? I will go ahead and overhaul the compressor. It does get hot but the manual says overheat is 250 to 300F!!!!

Struts stay inflated so I am guessing the problem is upstream of the strut fore and aft control valves.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2024 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by robkneeland
So far...reservoir is corroded but not leaking. Pressure increases but only to 200+- (<244psi) then the system kicks off saying too slow to fill. So far I've not found any other leaks, even the dryer cap. But the pressure does decrease rapidly when the compressor stops, suggesting a leak. Maybe the reservoir control valve...maybe internal leak? I will go ahead and overhaul the compressor. It does get hot but the manual says overheat is 250 to 300F!!!!

Struts stay inflated so I am guessing the problem is upstream of the strut fore and aft control valves.
Are you doing the soapy water test? Ive not found anything else that is reliable enough. Maybe if you have a smoke machine/tester you could blow a cloud of smoke and look for dusturbances in the cloud. Ive done that with limited success on vac lines.
double check all your fittings.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2024 | 11:32 AM
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100% recommend rebuilding the valve blocks while youre at it. just make sure the right hoses go back into the right holes when you reinstall. asl me how i know 🤣.
 
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