When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you replace both shocks you've got another 100,000 miles before you have to think about them again. Swaybar endlinks are cheap as are sensors. Since you now know how to inspect (jack it up, look for contact) this is probably a one-off event. Not much else can take out the EAS completely...maybe a compressor spontaneously flat lining but that should not happen; they show signs of dying first.
I've always been a staunch EAS advocate. In fairness I've never driven a coiler and it may be a good route, I just wanted to make the case for the EAS first so that you can go in with eyes wide open.
All very good points - I am really struggling with which way to go. I do love the EAS system and the truck had 4 new Arnott air struts put on 2 years ago. I believe it also received one of the updated compressors from the prior owner. When I go out camping, it's about as far away as one can get so breakdowns are a real risk. I could always bring an extra air strut along, but wouldn't have many options should the valve block or something else in the airline goes.
Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
I wonder how a coil would be impacted by a similar failure? Rub through also? Get bound up on the UCA in some way and snap the coil or UCA itself? I am just shocked it wore that much without making any noticeable noise.
Also that link does look rather bent to me, bend it right behind the brake line in the photo.
I've now bent 2 sway bar links in 1 month (each side). I caught the first one while doing my brakes, but the one that failed this week was perfect. Are these known to fail regularly? I have a Moog unit on the driver side and it looks and feels much heavier and higher quality than the OEM unit.
I have no idea how I didn't hear any brushing noise between the shock and the UCA. I am extremely **** about the health of my vehicle - to the point of spending probably too much on preventive maintenance - but there were really no indications there was a problem at all. This thing didn't even blow while I was on a difficult part of the trail. I was on probably the smoothest, straightest dirt road of the week when it happened.
The Arnott units carry a lifetime warranty so you might contact them. I'm not sure about the rest, particularly nthe swaybar links. Like I said I went through this once and now it's no longer a concern. The rest is your choice, of course.
To conclude this thread, I want to add a little more information in case someone else needs it when they find themselves in this situation:
Both of my sway bar end links have been bent. I caught the driver side before it was too late. Both sway bar bushings were replaced just a week before this trip.
I have both Johnson Rods and a LLAMS kit installed. I typically run with LLAMS set to High on most trails (LR3 set to normal drive height when LLAMS is turned on).
Current theory is that running the truck at such a high height (Offroad Height + Johnson Rods) full time is putting too much stress on the sway bar links, which may cause them to fail. The truck runs great otherwise and this is the first time this issue has presented itself despite being on many different trails over the course of a year an a half.
Your theory may be correct. Personally I would not even use the rods if I had the LLAMs kit. Height is good to have, but it can certainly be overkill. Not to mention I hate to think what you are doing to the half-shaft CV joints at those extreme angles. And lets not forget that when you push things really far your alignment is also off which creates unique stresses, particularly on the bushings. So maybe you are right in that it all adds up. The sway links are known to wear fast, but I dont really too many people boning them like you have. In fact, I can't think of anyone else but I am sure its happened. Usually its a full failure with the ball joint popping out or maybe a weld on the link going. Mine were factory and replaced by AC Delco, one was bad from the start and a couple months later the other's boot looked 10 years old - cracked really badly. So for the heck of it I bought two Delphi brand for DIRT cheap and they are holding up just fine on the trails and I was pretty brutal with it this past weekend, including corrugations at 48Mph.
Yep, Llams does away with the need for rods so it seems you have pushed it beyond operating range. Height in that pic looks like normal offroad height.
It's possible my rods are the lower ride height ones (1" I think?). The previous owner put them on so im not entirely sure what lift they give. When the truck is back ill measure.
Anyway, looks like ill be removing the rods and keeping LLAMS. Anyone want to trade stock rods for a pair of Johnsons?
I think you can keep the Johnsons....at least until you can get some stock ones, and just adjust your height downward using the GAP tool. Is the LLAMS set up in discrete height settings/intervals or can you adjust your height with it?
Main thing....regardless of whether you are keeping the J-Rods and/or the LLAMS, get in there with your IIDTool and look at the calibration values and make sure that you have it set within the allowable range.
09-07-2020, 09:30 PM
