Air Shock Lifespan
#1
Air Shock Lifespan
So far I have replaced just one air shock (front passenger side). It went at around 105k miles and now I'm at 117k. I have the others on my watch list.
Has anyone had to replace more than one shock (not because "they should be done in pairs" which I disagree with) but because more than one has worn out? If so, what mileage did you start seeing the effects of wear?
Has anyone had to replace more than one shock (not because "they should be done in pairs" which I disagree with) but because more than one has worn out? If so, what mileage did you start seeing the effects of wear?
#2
So far I have replaced just one air shock (front passenger side). It went at around 105k miles and now I'm at 117k. I have the others on my watch list.
Has anyone had to replace more than one shock (not because "they should be done in pairs" which I disagree with) but because more than one has worn out? If so, what mileage did you start seeing the effects of wear?
Has anyone had to replace more than one shock (not because "they should be done in pairs" which I disagree with) but because more than one has worn out? If so, what mileage did you start seeing the effects of wear?
To be clear they are air springs attached to a conventional shock. The air springs do wear out and the performance of the shock also decreases with time. Did you replace just the air spring portion or was the entire spring/shock assembly replaced? If it was the latter then I would lean towards replacing in pairs or even all 4 to get a consistent ride.
#3
#4
I'm at 77k and the passenger side rear air strut has been leaking for a few months now. Rear valve block may be going too but we'll see.
I know they say you should replace them in pairs but can I get away with doing just the one? All the others are fine and I worry about straining the compressor because it has to pump up the back every time I get in in the mornings.
I know they say you should replace them in pairs but can I get away with doing just the one? All the others are fine and I worry about straining the compressor because it has to pump up the back every time I get in in the mornings.
#5
I can tell, that LR3 struts are far more superior that those on D2 s and P 38s .
I replaced both fronts this year,not because they were leaking, I simply realized , that it is 10 year anniversary since my LR3 was assembled and I should treat my overloading and every day driver companion , with something special, something new , as present.
I also could feel every bump on the road due to heavily worn gas shocks inside air towers/bladders,. I immediately thought about rebuilding entire unit , but when I compered prices, the answer was obvious, so I bought two new front air struts from BPoU and proceeded with installation the following weekend.NOT that there were leaks of any king, no, no, no...only because ride become a lot less comfortable., that is all.
I am , after all , at 163 000 miles, so at this mileage, anybody should stop kidding yourself and think , that gas strut should last and perform as prescribed till 200 000 miles. It may last , but ride comfort could be similar to those pilgrims riding on hay wagons , back in the day.
Now, ..I also purchased a two rear air towers, from the same supplier, as I want to replace some time this year ,before our local club will travel to NMW for a week long wilderness off road excursion.
What I wanted to point out is that our biggest suspects for air leaks , are front and rear valve blocks. Over time ,they can loose air over night substantially , as it happened to me, first the front went, loosing about 1.5 inches overnight, then a couple months later , rear went ,loosing a little more the an inch after a few hours, every night.Long before I replaced them, I could see LR3 lower eery morning, but compressor would rise it up and I never got to the point of experiencing a air suspension fouls or anything like that.I was also rebuilding an air compressor , every 50 000 miles , so that probably prevented the system fro overheating.
Long story short, after replacing both valves, no more lowering over night , NOT even a 1/4 of an inch., till today.
In April, when it gets warmer , I plan to rebuild my compressor , again, with overhoul kit and new drier , also a new piston seal, that I purchased from a British vendor of Ebay .I need to keep, my, still ,an ORIGINAL compressor running , as I own RS sliders and I am not ready for any cutting and welding , due to incompatibility with a new AMK air compressor, that superseded HITACHI, which I still currently own and use.I also run on original Alternator, so knack on wood...
I replaced both fronts this year,not because they were leaking, I simply realized , that it is 10 year anniversary since my LR3 was assembled and I should treat my overloading and every day driver companion , with something special, something new , as present.
I also could feel every bump on the road due to heavily worn gas shocks inside air towers/bladders,. I immediately thought about rebuilding entire unit , but when I compered prices, the answer was obvious, so I bought two new front air struts from BPoU and proceeded with installation the following weekend.NOT that there were leaks of any king, no, no, no...only because ride become a lot less comfortable., that is all.
I am , after all , at 163 000 miles, so at this mileage, anybody should stop kidding yourself and think , that gas strut should last and perform as prescribed till 200 000 miles. It may last , but ride comfort could be similar to those pilgrims riding on hay wagons , back in the day.
Now, ..I also purchased a two rear air towers, from the same supplier, as I want to replace some time this year ,before our local club will travel to NMW for a week long wilderness off road excursion.
What I wanted to point out is that our biggest suspects for air leaks , are front and rear valve blocks. Over time ,they can loose air over night substantially , as it happened to me, first the front went, loosing about 1.5 inches overnight, then a couple months later , rear went ,loosing a little more the an inch after a few hours, every night.Long before I replaced them, I could see LR3 lower eery morning, but compressor would rise it up and I never got to the point of experiencing a air suspension fouls or anything like that.I was also rebuilding an air compressor , every 50 000 miles , so that probably prevented the system fro overheating.
Long story short, after replacing both valves, no more lowering over night , NOT even a 1/4 of an inch., till today.
In April, when it gets warmer , I plan to rebuild my compressor , again, with overhoul kit and new drier , also a new piston seal, that I purchased from a British vendor of Ebay .I need to keep, my, still ,an ORIGINAL compressor running , as I own RS sliders and I am not ready for any cutting and welding , due to incompatibility with a new AMK air compressor, that superseded HITACHI, which I still currently own and use.I also run on original Alternator, so knack on wood...
#6
I'm in the same boat with the compressor situation and the sliders. I purchased the re-lo bracket from Tactical 4x4 and I'm hoping that it can be fitted without cutting or at least minimal cutting.
I think if my LR3 can give me a year or two without any major issues, I may take the same route with replacing the air struts. Feels fine though.
I think if my LR3 can give me a year or two without any major issues, I may take the same route with replacing the air struts. Feels fine though.
#7
I think the Arnott compressor will work, I have not yet confirmed that. It is what I plan to order if i need one.
I'm on 147k on the original air bags. I replaced the dampers and seals 50k or so ago. I don't know how long they will last, but I'm getting a too many transitions code periodically so I suspect there is a small leak somewhere, but it is too small to detect at this stage.
I'm on 147k on the original air bags. I replaced the dampers and seals 50k or so ago. I don't know how long they will last, but I'm getting a too many transitions code periodically so I suspect there is a small leak somewhere, but it is too small to detect at this stage.
#9