Air suspension gallery pressure question.
Ok. Trying to figure out if that gallery pressure reading is faulty. 136kpa is way too static for my likes and wonder if that is, for all intents, zero. That could imply a bad sensor, bad wiring that is building resistance, etc. So something to keep in mind. But you can verify this by disconnecting any line in the gallery and see if air comes out and what the reading is. With the gallery open it should be zero. And if indeed 136kpa is indeed zero it would help diagnose and explain more.
Right before that video I had the valve block fully disconnected so should be empty and no air came out when disconnecting any part.
That is pretty far off then. I don't know the tolerance and I am sure there is some to the value. But that is a lot. I would not blame the sensor yet until wiring is looked at. So at this point I am sill leaning to a very large leak and it would have to be in the lines or reservoir. Hence the idea to cap the line going to the reservoir and seeing what pressure can be reached then. If it climbs fast then you know it was the reservoir. If not then a leak in the gallery some place or compressor issue.
That is pretty far off then. I don't know the tolerance and I am sure there is some to the value. But that is a lot. I would not blame the sensor yet until wiring is looked at. So at this point I am sill leaning to a very large leak and it would have to be in the lines or reservoir. Hence the idea to cap the line going to the reservoir and seeing what pressure can be reached then. If it climbs fast then you know it was the reservoir. If not then a leak in the gallery some place or compressor issue.
Push-connects are ideal There can be a lot of pressure fast so it has to be able to hold to the line well. Some hardware stores have a small selection of pneumatic lines, couplers, etc. 1/4" is very close to 6mm and while not ideal, would be enough for testing. Or if you happen to have some spare hose, you could use that and just vice grip clamp it closed which will damage the line.
Caps that I have are similar to this, I keep metal couplers and caps on hand for field repairs. Plastic fitting work in a pinch, but given the potential PSI reached metal 6mm fittings are best.
Caps that I have are similar to this, I keep metal couplers and caps on hand for field repairs. Plastic fitting work in a pinch, but given the potential PSI reached metal 6mm fittings are best.
Last edited by DakotaTravler; Mar 21, 2026 at 02:03 PM.
Or even these would be handy to plug right into an open line port to block it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...476WZ5XM&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...476WZ5XM&psc=1
wondering if any local stores will sell
yeah, I have an old valve block that I could close up easily so you’re saying to close off the reservoir line that’s coming from the center valve block on the car so that we can eliminate if the leak is in the reservoir if the leak is in the reservoir and that is blocked off with the car lift off the bump stops
progress!
so when doing this. The gallery pressure goes up to about 1000 before shutting off and saying fills to fast now.
but with the tank removed temporarily. I was able to go into the gap tool test values. And lift everything up. While it’s slow. It lifted and is sitting up now.
is slow just because it doesn’t have the tank to push more pressure or still potentially bad compressor.
it hasn’t been up for almost two years according to previous owner.


