I recently had a C1A20-64 (AF) Air Suspension system Error Code. My GAP IIDTool explained it as: Pressure Increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure.

• So I ordered an X8R46 Repair Kit from Amazon. (Compressor O-Rings, new dryer desiccant, and new Piston seals).
• Fitted it all together yesterday.
• Note: I previously had done the same re-build procedure, on a 2011 Compressor that picked up cheap, in June 2018, at 132,600 (I am now at about 165,000). In other words - Not really very long ago / not many miles driven since the previous rebuild.
• Note: I replaced the Dryer End Cap with the metal Cap during the June 2018 rebuild, therefore not necessary to replace that.
• In order to remove the tricky 'top bolt' of the Compressor Bracket, I actually used a (10mm) Ratcheting Wrench. Not a flex-head wrench, although flex-head would probably have been even easier. I found this much easier than trying to snake a 10mm socket inbetween the top of the compressor and the underside of the top plastic protection cover.
• The 3 10mm bolts were quite badly rusted and corroded, so I swapped them out for some new bolts. The only ones I had in stock were with a 13mm hex head, i.e. larger than the standard 10mm head, but that's ok. Cleaned the nut thread using tap/die set.
• There was some slight corrosion starting to happen on the aluminium Bracket, so I thoroughly cleaned that up and repainted it. I used the correct aluminium primer.
• Vehicle is still on the original Air Bags, as far as I know - I purchased at around 75,000 with full service history records. Living on borrowed time I think...
• I have not yet rebuilt both (Front and Rear) Valve Blocks - That will be done this coming weekend, as a preventative measure. Kit of O-Rings has been ordered.
• There are 3 bolts that attach the Compressor to the Bracket. All 3 use a Torx head bolt. Quite badly corroded. I don't trust these Torx heads to last much longer, so replaced the 2 larger bolts with hex-head bolt. The 'third' Torx Head 'bolt', which goes through the smallest rubber Bushing, is actually a 'screw' - Did not replace this one, because did not have a hex-head replacement in stock. Used lots of anti-sieze when put back together.
• No issues removing or refitting any of the air lines - Used some penetrating lube, some patience, and a flare-nut wrench (aka Line Wrench) to push down the metal sleeve enough to remove the air lines.
• Condition of old desiccant was bad. The bottom cloth pad, closet to the motor, was pretty badly discolored and hard and crusty - Air would have had a pretty hard time getting through that. 99% of the old dessicant beads were black. New beads are a medium amber color. Some dust, but not a huge amount. Lots of fine 'soot' in the Piston chamber. Good news though, this cleaned up perfectly, and the Piston Bearing was in very good condition - zero 'play'. There was one small area on the inside of the piston housing wall which was very very slightly 'scored' - Not quite completely smooth. So I swapped this for a spare one that I had.
• I used some electrical cleaner and then dialectic grease on the 2 electrical connectors.
• Good news, the first time I started the vehicle, the Compressor sounded much better, in my opinion - was not 'groaning' anymore. In other words, the sound was much higher pitched. And the Compressor stopped running voluntarily, i.e. it did not stop running due to an error code coming on. In fact, no error codes came on. Prior to the rebuild, the C1A20-64 (AF) error code usually came on after a minute or 2 of the Compressor / vehicle being turned on.

BUT, I noticed a very slight hissing sound, coming from somewhere underneath the vehicle. I managed to trace it to one of the air lines near the front of the vehicle, running across from left to right side, right next to a cross-frame. Tiny hole in the air line. Air hissing out. I think this is actually good news - Probably explains why the Compressor threw a code, because it was probably running almost constantly. Maybe it's been running much more than it normally would need to for months, hence the reason why I am needing to rebuild the Compressor so soon after the last time (only 18 months ago). Probably lucky that I did not further damage the actual compressor motor.

I have zero experience or knowledge regarding these air lines - What I am assuming I should do is get some sort of 'splicing' connector, cut the line, and use the connector to join the 2 lines back together? Is there an actual OEM Land Rover Connector that will achieve this? Exactly what size connector do I need? What is the inside and outside diameter of the pipe? (I think it may be 6mm OD?) Cheapest / quickest / easiest way to do this? Is there any possibility that a 'glue' approach will work? Some sort of epoxy or tape? Short-term fix?

Cheers,

Simon

 

Land Rover actually sells a air line repair push connector, or you can find on eBay.

they work fine.

 

Never use penetrating lube on pneumatic fittings. It will degrade the sealing o-rings. Just push the line and couple down and pull back.

The nuts for holding the bracket, you can get new j-hooks from most car part places. I have many extras since I bought a 12-pack. They just clip onto the frame after all and swap out easily.

I think the lines are 6mm? I forget. But any metric push connect will work. I keep a couple in the glove box for emergency repairs.