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Alternator fuse box issues

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  #1  
Old 09-21-2019 | 02:46 PM
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Default Alternator fuse box issues

So I have had ongoing alternator issues. I had a local shop work on it. They determined that it was a problem with the engine compartment fuse box. They said that they could replace the main wiring harness, fuse box included. They couldn’t splice in a repair due to insurance issues. They told me to try to get the wires going to the fuse to seat better. No luck. It appears to be a red wire on the battery side of the box and a brown wire with a purple stripe on the inner side of the fuse.

Can i splice in a separate fuse and bypass the fuse box. The fuse box is evidently a known problem.

Thanks. Stuck in San Diego.

2006 Range Rover sport. Hse 4.4 liter
 
  #2  
Old 09-21-2019 | 02:51 PM
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Red wire and brown with purple strip

5 amp blade fuse goes in f20 between to two green 30 amp fuses.
 
  #3  
Old 09-21-2019 | 04:42 PM
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What is the actual issue? Unless a Rover specialist, I am always skeptical of diagnosis.

But if there is a fuse holding issue, you can reverse out the metal fuse holder tabs I believe. At least I have in other fuse boxes. Need a needle/tiny flathead screwdriver (very tiny) and reverse them out the bottom. You can get replacement fuse holder end to crimp or solder onto the end of the wire and then slip up and back in (they lock with a small metal tab, the same tab you "flatten" to back them out with).
 
  #4  
Old 09-21-2019 | 04:56 PM
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Yes rover shop. Guys know their stuff. I wish they would have fixed this. I am sick of fixing vehicles. Land rovers are the most unreliable vehicles that I have ever owned. They are junk. Damn if I don’t own three of them. But not for long. I have had it with these poorly built vehicles.

From cracked dashes to cheap interior finishes to electrical nightmares to cooling issues that Land Rover never seems to resolve. It just doesn’t stop
 

Last edited by ljdiscovery; 06-03-2020 at 11:52 AM.
  #5  
Old 09-21-2019 | 06:20 PM
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Guess its good you dont own a BMW then, far far worse.
 
  #6  
Old 09-21-2019 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ljdiscovery
Yes rover shop. Guys know their stuff. I wish they would have fixed this. I am sick of fixing vehicles. Land rovers are the most unreliable vehicles that I have ever owned. They are junk. Damn if I don’t own three of them. But not for long. I have had it with these portly built vehicles.

From cracked dashes to cheap interior finishes to electrical nightmares to cooling issues that Land Rover never seems to resolve. It just doesn’t stop
Have you actually done any preventative maintenance? My LR3 has been in the family for 300k miles, having regular maintenance done and preventative with no major problems whatsoever. Its been off road regularly as well, quite hard every six months. Why don't you go ahead and buy a toyota or a honda if you aren't interested in all that tough stuff, like keeping up with standard maintenance intervals. If you don't love the vehicle you own, and you don't love to work on it, (or you love to pay to have it fixed) get rid of it. Yes, they're hard to work on, that's why if you can learn to work on land rovers other vehicles will be a breeze. Unless you want to pay the dealer to teach their mechanics to do it, you should do it yourself, unless you 're busy enough to justify spending the money, as in you make more money not working on it than working on it. Again, if you don't love the experience, end it.

As an aside it is fairly easy to diagnose alternator issues, but for us to really help you you're going to need to provide your symptoms. The alternator keeps the battery charged, it doesn't directly power the vehicle. If there is a problem from the battery to the engine bay, you can easily test whether not power is getting there correctly by using a meter to make sure there is no more than appropriate resistance from the battery to the fuse box distributor, and ensuring the voltage is correct. As for those two wires you mentioned, you can do essentially the same thing. Test voltage, then resistance between both ends of the fuse. If you're getting no voltage than it's a connection issue and you need to isolate the break so you can replace or reconnect the appropriate segment, if I knew what the those wires went to it would be a big help.
 

Last edited by Identamerican; 09-21-2019 at 06:44 PM.
  #7  
Old 09-21-2019 | 06:32 PM
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Actually we do have a bmw! Pretty solid vehicle.

We have three rovers right now and three toyota 4runners. We have also had three discovery’s.

The 4runners are incredible. We also have had two land cruisers. Also incredible trucks.

We do do preventive maintenance and keep up with repairs.
 
  #8  
Old 09-21-2019 | 06:47 PM
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So a BMW, three rovers, and three 4runners. That's at least 7 vehicles. I'm surprised you don't have a shop. Company or personal use?
 

Last edited by Identamerican; 09-21-2019 at 06:50 PM.
  #9  
Old 09-21-2019 | 08:06 PM
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And a porsche and a Chevy truck and 6 motorcycles. Sadly they are all personal. Although it is beginning to feel like a job. Need to thin the herd. Phil


okay. I put a jumper fuse in and bypassed the main battery fuse box for fuse f20. I am now reading 14+ volts at the battery. The gap tool is showing 12.6. The dash shows 12.6. The fan is revving. I got a p0626-00 code generator and a p0695-00 fan 3 control. Something is still off. Phil
 
  #10  
Old 09-21-2019 | 08:47 PM
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Okay. We have liftoff! The shop had removed a 5 amp fuse behind the glove box. I will edit this and add the fuse number. I installed a fuse and viola. Fan went off transmission is working properly. Generator/alternator is putting out 14.4 to the battery. Now shows 13.7 on the dash snd on the gap tool. Alternator light is off. What a relief.

If if you are having alternator issues it might be the battery fuse box connections.

Phil

2005 LR3
2006 Range Rover Sport
2010 Range Rover Sport
 



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